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DIY Halogen Lights System

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  • DIY Halogen Lights System

    I'd like to begin a thread specific to making your own halogen light system because comprehensive answers don't already exist and it looks like the hardware link is dead over on the "How to Install a ProTee Golf Simulator" topic. Please provide links to widely available products at local hardware stores if possible.

    Subtopics to address are:

    1) What style of lighting hardware lend themselves to the optimal setup for Protee Base Sensors and Putting Sensors (e.g. Track Lighting, Can Lights, DJ Lights, etc...)?

    2) What type/size/wattage of halogen bulb would be most appropriate for item (1)?


    Based on my current research, I've come up with the suggestions links while keeping functionality, price, and availability at the forefront of decision making.

    1)
    ---a)PAR30 Track Lighting (Use two of the three)
    ---b)PAR 30 Can Light

    2)
    ---a)PAR 30 75W Bright Spot Light
    Last edited by Vance; 09-16-2014, 09:33 PM.

  • #2
    No can lights.
    Standard Halogen bulbs. Do not use frosted bulbs(some have tried).

    Standard 120v track lighting system from Home Depot or other hardware stores. Might need multiple tracks. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-B...51WH/100133783

    Putting sensor fixture: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-B...36WH/202051405
    Par30 flood halogen bulb. Go with a short neck bulb if you can fine it. It will recess nicely in the fixture. 60-75w depending on the mounting height of the fixture. Mine is 8.5' and I use a 60w. For 10', I would use a 75w. You can use alluminum tape to further act as a cone for the light, which will help it from washing out the screen.

    Main sensor light fixture can be the same but I would recommend a halogen spot bulb instead of the flood bulb. Again, use alluminum tape to act as a cone.

    60w flood halogen shortneck bulb: www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-PHILIPS-haloge...&hash=item338add6c7a

    Btw, the fixtures come black also.
    Last edited by Vance; 09-22-2014, 08:59 PM.

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    • #3
      Great recommendations. I had seen the photo of your light using aluminum tape and thought that was pretty clever!

      I took the attached photo at Lowes the other night to get an opinion on what the slightly frosted lens would produce. Atleast it's not a full blown diffuser but I didn't see anything like short-medium neck in the 75W range.

      I realize we want to minimize light leaking onto the projector screen but can you hurt your readings by using more watts/lumens in all situations? Since the size of the bulb and wattage combine to produce a lumens estimate, do you have a lumens recommendations to get the sensors/cameras reading optimally?

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      • #4
        That bulb above looks like a normal halogen bulb to me. Not frosted.

        Too much light could cause the floor to be too bright for the Hcam. i.e a 75w bulb would be too much for an 8.5ft height. I'm thinking 800 lumens or so but I don't remember. The idea is get one just bright enough to so the Hcam will pick up thinned, low drives. You might end up trying different types of bulbs before finding one that works the best. Keep in mind also that the carpet that covers the putting sensor needs to be black or very dark green.

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        • #5
          Honestly, I've spent a ton of money trying all the different kinds of lights. Go with the ones ProTee recommends and save yourself the money.

          Alternative Fixture. These have a little bit of light leak out the top but not too bad. It includes the transformer to a normal H track works great. Price Range: 45-55:
          http://www.homeperfect.com/wac-lighting-hht-935l-bk-range-h-series-low-voltage-track-head-75w-in-black-made-up-of-diecast-aluminum-material.html

          These don't have the light leak issue. Price: 85 - This is down a bit, used to be 120
          http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007P3RXK

          Then use the AR111 bulbs that meet your environment. I'd start with the ProTee recommended ones. With the new wattage requirements in the US trying to find a good PAR replacement is more hassle than it's worth.

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          • #6
            http://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/products/Lighting/Indoor+Lighting/Ansell+Indoor+Lighting/Track+%26+Spot/Spotlight+Heads/Par+30+%26+Pendants/Penza+Mains+Black+Track+Lighting+Head+75W+Par+30/1870440084?gclid=CK3MwIzP27wCFZShtAodey0AAQ


            do you think these are ok for light fittings

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            • #7
              Those should work. They fit on your track I assume?

              And looks like you have pay extra for the bulb.

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              • #8
                Well I can get a single power base, and clip this into it, not sure why I need a track as such?

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                • #9
                  you don't as long as you can get it to work.
                  GC2 Eastern Time Zone, USA

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                  • #10
                    mmlicon, since u tried, and are still using protee golf lights, have u sourced out a supplier for bulbs. Just maybe able to get 60 and 75 watt bulbs in future, also it would be nice to know about replacing current 50 watt bulbs if needed. I know Z max recommends 120 volt system, cant find them at Home Depot, Rona or Lowes in my area.
                    Also being only 12v AC from 110 a\c, They must draw a lot of current. I wondering did u place transformer near lights or 15 feet away and use a heavier wire. Thank Bill

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                    • #11
                      Just ordered my Pro Tee Base 2 and can't wait until I can get it, install it and start playing. I'd like to get started roughing in the electric while I'm waiting for my system to arrive. All this talk about DIY light systems is confusing me. Is there something wrong with the lights supplied from Pro Tee? or are the track lighting systems talked about in this thread simply a personal preference?
                      Florida, USA Eastern Standard Time

                      Twitch Channel:fweiland

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                      • #12
                        Welcome to the forum. Nothing wrong with the Protee lights. I prefer to use the 120v system and light fixtures. They were great for me. The Protee lights might work great for you or they might not. They also require a low voltage transformer last time I checked. The track system allows for easy adjustments of the lights. Which, you will probably have to do.

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                        • #13
                          I don't want to confuse the intent of this thread because I don't think there is anything inherently wrong with the ProTee lights that come with the system. I started this thread mainly to explore a cheaper method to get the same lighting system and without needing to do the voltage conversion that Zmax alluded to. That said, my system is up and running with a $60 generic track lighting system from Lowes as described below. I'm very happy with its functionality and versatility. It gets the job done well and will be usable in a permanent installation down the road.

                          48" Track: $10
                          2 x Par 30 size Track Light: 2 x $10 = $20
                          Track Light Power Connector (for wall outlet w/ removable switch): $10
                          1 Sylvania 75W Halogen Flood Light: $10
                          1 Sylvania 75W Halogen Spot Light: $10






                          This little black switch originally came on the end of the power connector cable but you can relo

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                          • #14
                            That is an excellent write up. It's always nice to have options, that's for sure. Well done!

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                            • #15
                              I've been researching the track lighting options a lot lately. Found these great lights on 1000bulbs.com:

                              https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/41...A-NTH102B.html

                              They look very nice, the cylinder is very deep to help get a nice cone for the light, and their adjustability is perfect. I had trouble with the Portfolio lights above. They can't be adjusted to point straight down. The light beam is always at an angle. These lights can point straight down.

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