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Golf Sim Shed build - finally...

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  • Golf Sim Shed build - finally...

    ​​​Hi Everyone,

    I'm starting this post as a way to keep myself accountable. The tasks are huge, but not insurmountable as I'm having to do all my build work by myself. Contractors are either non-existent in this post-pandemic marketplace, or they have so much work they are 3 months out! I'll be posting up here as I make progress... and hope to be completed by Thanksgiving 2021.

    As a side note, 2 of my local courses that I have a season-pass to, both told me today they are closed for the season! Bummer, but not to worry, now that my Golf Sim dream is about to become reality! I will be preparing this Sim for 2 LMs, the first being a ProTee (sensor/optical-camera based unit with 2 sensors one for hitting, the other for putting) which I have purchased about 2 years ago, as well as the TGC2019 license. The second LM will be setup for the Garmin Approach R10 (radar based unit) which was purchased about 1 month ago - I tested it on the range, and into a net in my backyard at 8' from the ball-to-net and it gave very good accuracy.

    Here are the basics... I've tried to consider other Sim builds in our previous house (2nd floor $45k, Basement $15k, and possibly shed, but never got that far). After all the hassle and trouble of considering it, finally decided to move to a house that had 'potential' for the Golf Sim I've always wanted. It has a 12'x16' Gambrel roof shed already constructed in the back and just steps away from our back door... now - to solve the other issue... it was setup with a garage door in it and has 3 ceiling joists (limiting the ceiling height). Not to worry, I've already removed garage door, and will soon be cutting down ceiling joists which I don't believe do anything for the structure as the load on a gambrel roof is carried down the sides and I'm sitting on concrete. The snow load I've watched over the last 2 winters is minimal as it all melts and slides down the steep roof slope.

    Here were the starting pics... Prior to September 2021...
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    Last edited by Brettster; 11-08-2021, 03:35 AM.

  • #16
    Looks great, I have the Garmin R10 as well. What are the dimensions for your shed? My garage is 11x18. Where did you get the heating panels from and how do they do in the Chicago cold? I am in MA so probably similar.


    • #17
      Rlefig - thanks... still building, about to post new pics. Walls are up, insulation going in so your question is just-in-time

      My shed is 16'x12' (external measurement), making the internal dimensions 15'5"x11'5".

      Regarding the heating, the heating panels cannot get me higher than 20-25 degrees or so above outside temperature! I've tried them with an oil heater, and same thing. You can find them on Amazon at: I used these in a previous house, but we had 10 of them... even so, I cannot get temps above 58 since I've had them in, and I'm going to go with a Mini-Split. I suggest you do the same. The Mini Split also gives you A/C and a 1 Ton Heat Pump (about 9,000 BTUs compared to about 5,200 BTUs with any 1500 watt heater).
      The Mini Split does all this with about 7-8amps of current draw. It's truly the way to go.

      Here's the Mini Split I'm going to buy:

      It comes with a WiFi App to control it too, perfect.

      I use this small digital indoor thermometer to keep track of the temperature to my phone (bluetooth) and it works great:

      Where are you at in MA, I lived in Northampton for a while.

      I'll be posting my current progress tomorrow - insulating the Gable ends of walls. All walls are now in, Electrical in and verified by electrician, but lack of heat is causing me to wait until Mini Split is in as I will not put my computer equipment out there until I can get the temps up. I know some do it, but I'm, not going to .


      • #18
        I am also seriously considering the idea of doing a mini split. Probably won’t do it until springtime. I think I’m going to go with Mrcool 12000btu model. We will see how much of that I can do myself. I have been going to YouTube university. Hopefully I’ll graduate with honors.


        • Brettster
          Brettster commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes, good point... I might try the install myself too - but you do have to have a vacuum pump, apparently even a low pressure one will work... But I kind of get the feeling, doing something that important (you could reduce the life of your system to 5 years, from 25 years) one time, is not going to go as well for me, as it would for an HVAC professional, so really thinking I will pay someone to do it. I think the unit I'm considering really wants you to have HVAC pro install it too. I could see that adding 20+years life to my Mini-Split by having it done right the first time might be worth the $100-$150 that an installer may charge me to do it.

          I'll post pics when it's done.... hopefully soon, but I'm reluctant too, to have it shipped with such cold weather, and have it installed with temps down close to 0 F at night. Soon...

      • #19
        I have been for some time as well, however I'm still hung up on how well and quickly they will actually heat up in cold climates. I've seen a few models efficiency curves and those were very poor performance at lower temps. I use a 220 electric heater with an additional fan above it for the winter and it heats up my garage fairly quickly even when it's very cold and then a window AC unit in the summer which also works very good. So i'm still hesitant to change over to the mini split.
        Originally posted by Venom View Post
        I am also seriously considering the idea of doing a mini split. Probably won’t do it until springtime. I think I’m going to go with Mrcool 12000btu model. We will see how much of that I can do myself. I have been going to YouTube university. Hopefully I’ll graduate with honors.


        • Brettster
          Brettster commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes wbond - I think you're in Michigan and even colder than I am, also heat/humidity in summer, the Mini Split is really the best way to go. I'm not that concerned about how quickly it can heat/cool the space as one of the intents is to keep the space fairly comfortable 24/7 (being that I want to keep my computers/equipment at a decent temperature - warm in winter - cool in summer), so something like 64 in Winter, and maybe like 74 in Summer, than connect to the Mini-Split from inside the house with the App, to adjust the unit when I'm thinking of going out.

          Here's the unit I'm picking up:

      • #20
        Next update - all of the walls are up, electrical done and inspected by electrician and I started insulating the gable ends. The walls were insulated as I went along before hanging drywall. I can now say that so far, Drywall Hanging is my least liked task throughout the entire build so far, it's a bear. Each 1/2" thick 4'x8' drywall sheet weighs nearly 40lbs and is clumsy as all get out, when there's any wind and you're trying to manipulate the sheetrock and put it into place - often after cutting it twice (as I'm not at 8' height, and sometimes I'm not spanning a full 4' width). Then, you've got to get your cutouts in place for outlet boxes, switches, etc, and cut them out with a hole-saw.

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        Here's the gable end fully insulated (screen will hang in front of this wall). I gained 3-5 degrees in temperature inside the space after finishing insulation (about 24F above outside temperature), so, hoping for another 5-10 degrees, but even that will not get me to where I want - it's 20F outside today for as high - and will be that temp, or colder the next 10 days at the peak of the afternoon, so even at 30F degrees above outside temperature - that only puts me at: 50F and too cold.

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        Next up, finish insulating the other Gable end, then install plywood over gable ends. Then insulate roof areas and apply plywood over those creating a ceiling that will peak at 10' height. Oh, and have Mini-Split installed professionally possibly - as you need a vacuum pump to do it.

        The Mini Split also gives you A/C and a 1 Ton Heat Pump (about 9,000 BTUs compared to about 5,200 BTUs with any 1500 watt heater).
        The Mini Split does all this with about 7-8amps of current draw. It's truly the way to go. I've already chosen a wall area where it will hang - it has to hang at 8' height, so I'll be at 7'6" (that's as high as my walls go).

        While I was in that spot, I tested the WiFi strength with my phone and, apparently, I'm in a dead-zone there, so I'll be installing a WiFi Extender either on my porch, or somewhere in the laundry room - luckily my shed is just steps from the back porch anyway. I need WiFi there because I'm going to control my Mini-Split from the house with an app on my phone which will let me bump up temperatures anytime I like if I want it really warm in there, or cool it down in Summer time as the MiniSplit will cool with 21 SEER A/C on board. All this ran from a direct 15-20amp line (for the 9,000 BTU unit) which has an onboard inverter to let it do all it's work the most efficient way as possible and use very little electricity (6amps-8amps for this Della unit).

        Here's the Mini Split I'm going to buy:

        Attached Files
        Last edited by Brettster; 01-20-2022, 08:55 PM.


        • Carlisle66
          Carlisle66 commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks for posting progress - as frustrated as you may be with progress, I am still waiting on excavation after obtaining approvals for a 20x30 shed build in late October. As you say, there are delays with all the trades so patience is required. Being in Ontario with cold (especially this year) winters and hot summers I will also be putting in a mini-split. I am curious how far your build is from the house - using a wifi extender. My build will be 200’ away from the house and I am hoping to run either coax (I have MoCA running in the house but I have an access point in my cabana which is about 40’ away) or I will run an Ethernet cable out to the shed. Your almost there!

        • Brettster
          Brettster commented
          Editing a comment
          Carlisle66 - wow, that must really be frustrating! Waiting since October for excavation. I know, part of that delay was what had me doing it all myself, as the only delay I have - I am directly responsible for. I just didn't plan on get stopped so many times with Events with my family/kids, and now with having to wait it out for when I can have a Mini-Split installed as I was planning on finishing the inside work during these last few weeks, but with temps below 50 in there, I don't feel like going out to the shed to work.

          Regarding the wifi extender, my build is only 10' from the back corner of my house, and only 5' from the back porch. It's so close and just like 2 steps from the porch, or 4 steps from the garage to get to shed. So, I know the extender should have no problem at all, picking up a signal and boosting it out to the shed, where it will be used only for the Mini Split wifi app connection. I am also considering running Ethernet out there, under the sidewalk and into the building as I usually do that when I want to increase speeds. I have several (50' & 75' cables running to the router already). I think in your situation, you should just go with an Outdoor Ethernet cable and bury it out to your outbuilding - you'll pickup a lot of bandwidth that way.

          The shed is so close it is one of the reasons I was so excited when we moved to this house - I saw the potential before we bought the house, that the shed could be a great simulator with the high Gambrel/barn roof (10' ceiling peak) and 12' peak to very top inside. Good luck and I hope your delays end quickly... post some pics when you're up and running, or during the process too.

        • Carlisle66
          Carlisle66 commented
          Editing a comment
          I will post some pics after the building starts to go up. The delays are what they are, its for a long term benefit so we can be patient. I wasn’t really planning on a sim but we have a decent size lot and its something I had been thinking of, and have definitely been inspired by posts in this forum.

      • #21
        ood job man that's a lot of work you are putting in in. Good luck on the rest of the build.


        • #22
          Thanks boungolf ! It is a lot of work - I keep telling myself how worth it, it's going to be. Right now, I'm at a stopping point as it's 20F during the day outside, and often not more than 40F inside the shed with 3 heaters running. So, waiting for a little warmer weather when I will have the Mini-Split put in and I can work out there all I want to finish everything as it will be warm enough all day long.

          One thing I also keep telling myself, is that most already have insulation/walls/flooring/electrical/heat in their space when they start - so, I think it's a good sign that I can show almost the entire build, except for roofing and pouring foundation which I did get luck enough to already have.

          It won't be long - it will be slightly warmer and I'll have a mini-split with a steady temperature of 70F all day long in the building


          • #23
            Well, I've been taking some time off, the last month as the temps have been cold and I was really almost at the point where I was ready to take the computer/equipment out to the Shed. I didn't want to do that with the cold temps, and I even removed my Halogen spot bulbs and brought them inside for the last month or so. I've decided on a Della Mini-Split and will have it professionally installed, sometime this spring, before temps start to heat up. I was told by my father-in-law (HVAC certified) that it's best to have it installed at around 60F outside, as that's the best temp to set the vacuum pump and know you are at the right pressure.

            Temps are warming up, but supposed to cool way down again next week... but this gives me some time to plug-in and install my mini-projector, screen, and side-curtains.

            Last night I installed the right-side curtains and am pretty happy with how they turned out... I have 3 panels across 120" (about 10' of space). The first 5' closest to the screen I put 2 blackout panels in, giving more folds and better 'stopping ability'. The next 5' is closest to my hitting area, so less likely to catch a shank there - unless it's really, really bad. That last 5' also covers a window, so I put in a 'wrap around' industrial curtain rod, with metal piping. It's sturdy and I tested this morning in daylight and it's pitch black!

            Here's a pic of my Curtains installed.... planning on projector/screen next...

            Here are the items used for this install:

            Black Industrial Curtain Rod (with 1" piping, covers 72"-144" wide):

            Blackout Curtains (7' height):

            You can also get Blackout Curtains (8' height):

            Here's a pic of my install last night:
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            • #24
              Projector and screen is up... Let me explain. I hung the projector over my door and 10' high. To do this I had to first try an adjustable shelf that would let me slide wood blocks in to angle the shelf down 30 degrees, but when I did that, the image was always blurry or weird at 15' from the screen. When I talked to a video guy, he recommended hanging it upside down to try to fix the issue. So, I bought 2 ceiling mounts and mounted it under my custom built wood shelf - after I locked it at 90 degrees, see pic below:

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              Looking up at my custom built adjustable shelf with adjustable shelf brackets that will come down and go back up and lock at 90 degrees. So, I've now hung it from one of the ceiling mounts underneath the shelf, which puts it in a better place - but still the problem with Keystone, see pics below... No matter what I do, the keystone always tilts the image up at top and bottom and out of focus image, so if I move the keystone back to level, the image seems to tilt back toward top and is in better focus, but now it's like a trapezoid! I guess that's what happens with a $100 1080p mini projector.

              Here's the link to it:

              the main reason I got it, is so I can purchase and plugin in 5.1 audio sound into it - the tiny speaker on these things are just like tin cans, terrible. Other than that, image is ok, I can plug in firestick and 1 other HDMI input, as well as phone input, so plenty of inputs.

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              Well, you can also see left/right sides, I'm trying to see how bumpers may work out if I use Gutter Foam... not too happy with it, going to look for professional Bumpers - anyone have any ideas? Also, I'll be making baffles up top and draping all the way out about 4' from the screen mount. I also may be adding a second wire (with turnbuckle, eye bolts about 3" behind this screen to absolutely deaden the ball. You will notice I'm not tight at the bottom, no weight, and only 1 eyebolt at about 6" on each side... so, considering leaving that off, if it's going to continue to hang loose like it does, and completely stop bounceback, which I think it will do.

              All for now... plan on considerable time working on it this weekend, see if I can maybe get a hold of a memory foam mattress (3"-4" for more ball stopping), a large piece of polycarbonate (Home Depot, or Lowes) for protecting the Window that is behind the curtains on the right. Also, you may see the Gym mats (3 section and 6' long by 2' wide x 1.5" thick) that I plan on mounting left of the the screen, by just hanging on a single nail from a top strap. I will be filling in around those with 2" thick acoustic foam (1'x1' squares).

              All for now... it's looking much more like a Sim... hopefully tomorrow, or Sunday even more.... close

              Attached Files


              • #25
                Might want to reinforce those trusses like I did with Gusset Panels - used plywood on both sides of each truss. Click image for larger version

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                • #26
                  Hey thanks Hickory James - but I don't believe I need them, here's why. 1.) I have a Gambrel roof which distributes the load very nicely with the top angle and the collar ties are already mounted across every rafter (8 or 9 total over 16' so every 2'). 2.) Since a Gambrel roof is very stable in smaller sizes there is no need for additional gussets other than what is already there, there actually are small gussets at the location where the collar ties meet the rafters on the span. These have been stabilized with mini gussets at this point.

                  I can tell you, I've spent years studying this, before I made the decision to cut down the ceiling joists - see those posts on the first page - and look at my post from Jan 20, 2022 where you can see the ceiling joists removed, the collar ties on every rafter and the mini-gussets. I've had no issues at all and it's working beautifully. I did reinforce the corners on all the ends with supports at that point and using structural screws.

                  I'm not certain - but it looks like you have a Gable Roof (not Gambrel)? Is that correct? I would definitely put in the Gussets in a Gable Roof, but that's one of the advantages of my Gambrel roof, you don't need them, they are structurally sound - now on to one of the disadvantages when it comes to Golf Simulators in a Gambrel roof - see my next post, just spent most of an entire weekend mounting my ceiling baffle and building out bumpers to protect my screen which is so oddly shaped (only 7'-8' high, and 11' wide), see pics to follow in my next post!


                  • #27
                    Well - had to report on my entire weekend of work... building out my baffles with one giant piece of Commando Cloth from Chicago Canvas (I think the actual size was 19'x9'), and of course it had to be 'triangulated' in the corners because of the Gambrel Roof!

                    See pics below - but also one of the hardest parts was trying to apply grommets to the back wall of cloth 10' up in the air! I tried this first with one of those hammer based tools, but gave up after 3 of them... Try to picture me standing on a ladder - 10' in the air trying to bash a round metal 'grommet tool' through the Commando Cloth laid flat against a wood block (on the top step of that aluminum ladder in the pic below). I could not take the Fabric down, because it would have been impossible to get it back up again!

                    Here's some pics:
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                    After that, I ordered this handy dandy Grommet Tool which put the grommets in and cut the hole for me - I finished probably 15 grommets with one hand-squeeze of the tool - amazing!

                    Here's the tool on Amazon:

                    Here are more pics after I resumed my grommets along the top, then along the back edge after draping the fabric down in 2' baffle and another 1' baffle just above the top wire of the screen.

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                    By the way I used the Grommet tool when hanging the gym mats on the left side too - bonus.... my deadline is reset to next weekend (hoping to play Augusta on Master's weekend).

                    Weird - images will not add - just trying to change size.... keeps deleting image and showing 'click here'? I'll try again below:

                    Final outcome of weekend - bumpers and ceiling baffles in place, tested golf balls thrown against screen, baffles, gym mats and curtains...

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                    Last edited by Brettster; 04-04-2022, 05:36 AM.


                    • Brettster
                      Brettster commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Hi g_gryphon, thanks for the question. The main reason was that the padded mats allow you about 4"-5" more of width as they are only 1.5"-2.0" thick on the wall. The curtains stick out 7"-8" from the wall when they are hung, and wipe out a lot of projection width to the screen making your projected image narrower. Also, along the left, I felt that they would suffice for padding as there would be very few balls hit over there, compared to right - since I'm right-offset anyway (and can be 24"-30" from the right wall when hitting). One last benefit, I felt that when I have the family in to watch movies, I can take down the gym mats easily off the walls and provide nice seating mats on the floor for the little ones.

                    • g_gryphon
                      g_gryphon commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Makes sense, I see that the curtain rod you linked to sticks out about 4.5-5". Since I am likely to set up an outbuilding almost exactly the size of yours, I am keenly interested in the details. I have a couple questions regarding the curtains if I may: 1) You mentioned using three panels over the run of 10', doubling up in the first 5' for folds. What width panels did you use? 2) How would you compare the weight of the fabric of those curtains on Amazon to the Commando Cloth from Chicago Canvas? I noticed that Chicago Canvas sells noise dampening curtains for golf enclosures, which are likely as heavy or heavier than Commando Cloth but are super pricey.

                      Thanks again for all of the good information.

                    • Brettster
                      Brettster commented
                      Editing a comment
                      You're welcome - g_gryphon - that curtain rod is about 5", but the folds of the curtains come out about 7"-8", so you can see having curtains on any side will cause you to lose about 5" of width, but sometimes you need curtains as they do a better job of stopping the ball than those gym mats!

                      : 1) You mentioned using three panels over the run of 10', doubling up in the first 5' for folds. What width panels did you use? 2) How would you compare the weight of the fabric of those curtains on Amazon to the Commando Cloth from Chicago Canvas? I noticed that Chicago Canvas sells noise dampening curtains for golf enclosures, which are likely as heavy or heavier than Commando Cloth but are super pricey.
                      1.) I ended up dropping in the 4th panel I had along that row of curtains (all panels are 100" wide, and there are 4 of them), to fill out the rod with even more curtain material. Originally I had planned on 2 panels on right side, and 2 on left, but even after 3 panels they were not giving me full coverage. That is about 10' of coverage you see there along the right side - there's 35" wide window behind the panels farthest away from the screen.

                      Here are the curtain panels I purchased (7' long x 100" wide):

                      2.) Good question. The fabric of the curtain panels is more of a silky/polyester feel to it - and also more of a 'blackout effect' as that is how they are made to black out all light, and they do an excellent job with that window right there. The Commando Cloth is more like a felt material, softer and slightly stretchier - I know I could find nothing that matches it at Joann Fabrics, they came close, but not the same material, not as efficient at blocking light, or not stretchy enough, or too stretchy, it seems to do a great job of catching and slowing down balls. I didn't know Chicago Canvas also sells the curtains - you could give them a try, I bet they would be super good at what they do, but these Rose Home ones are also really good, and not too badly priced, here's that link again:

                      You might have to go with longer ones, 8foot, 9foot, for example, just that my rim beams (around the top rim of the shed) are just under 7', so I knew these would likely fit perfect, and they did. Good luck.

                  • #28
                    Congrat's on the progress! You are almost there!


                    • #29
                      Thank you GullLakeMi ! Yes, I've reset my deadline to the end of next weekend, or the one after (still a little work to do) - as I want to play Augusta in the Sim in 6 days.... Feels so amazing... I hit a 5 iron tonight, just to see the reaction off the screen and it's great, very little bounce back.

                      Here's what's left:
                      1.) Buy some Commando Cloth like material from JoAnn Fabrics to cover Gutter Foam piece (top left of pic - above the gym mats), or Memory foam for rafter protection...
                      2.) Insert Gutter Foam, or Memory Foam into baffles area where the collar ties may be only covered with Commando Cloth
                      3.) Roll back turf from screen and finish screwing down all floorboards with 2" screws.
                      4.) Realign turf fully to the right-side (side where hitting strip will be) and cut in some cheap 5/8" grass-like rough along the left of the pic (for 12") to allow for putting/chipping on the simulated rough, and simulated fringe area down the left side.
                      5.) Finish putting down 1/2" gym mat (puzzle pieces) to put some cushion in the floor below the turf.
                      6.) Measure and cut out for Pro-Tee hitting sensor mat with a rotary cutter that I bought for the job.
                      7.) Measure and cut out for Pro-Tee putting sensor in exact spot - which unfortunately is only 6' from screen and exposes my full shadow on the screen ;( Maybe work with ProTee on positioning Putting sensor further back - as long as halogen light(s) don't overlap.
                      8.) Cut hole in back wall for placing Garmin Approach R10 LM where it will be recessed into back wall. I've already measured this out and just need to cut it and glue on the 'Access Door' I will cover it with.
                      9.) Purchase Surround Sound audio and wire it to be used throughout the room, 1 Middle Speaker mounted above the screen, 2 side speakers mounted behind - at back door, with subwoofer on the floor.
                      10.) Buy an HDMI splitter to allow for multiple HDMI inputs into projector.
                      11.) Bring my computer out, hook it up and hook up all ProTee sensors to it, as well as Projector to it. Run wiring around behind the screen to the computer.

                      12.) Balls Up!


                      • #30
                        Here is the mini-projector I bought, great little unit for the price and Dolby audio is included in it:

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                        It's a great little unit... not too loud, bright, has 'keystone correction' and focus, and includes Dolby Digital Audio (cannot beat it).
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