Gc2 hmt
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I used FS's black protective cover... there's a alignment stick holder on it that worked pretty well. But a person can certainly just set a stick along the front folding leg as well.
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Originally posted by Golfnut7777 View PostTook gc2 hmt to another range with a guy who also has the same monitor. Learned his way to align it. Ball down,stick stuck in the ground 15 feet ahead of ball and inline with 150 yard marker on range. Then put alignment sticks down like railroad tracks. It worked! Driver not so great accurate reads I'm assuming cause the ball is teed up 3 inches. Will try again tomorrow with raised monitor 👍 Also walked out on the range and put sticks down 20 yards apart by the 150 marker. That also helped. In my head 15 yards left was actually about 9 yards left from the practice spot
As others said... it's all about alignment. I'm blown away how accurate these things are. The GC2 took a little more care to align than my GCQ, but it's also a snap once you figure it out. The new alignment stick aid on the GCQ is probably favorite upgrade.
btw.... tee height doesn't matter. There is a tiny bit of a learning curve with these but it doesn't matter what club you hit... once you figure out the alignment thing with your GC2 it's be a breeze.
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Don't forget gear effect with driver is magnified (toe vs heel) and don't forget that toe up and toe down can have impact on spin as well.
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Took gc2 hmt to another range with a guy who also has the same monitor. Learned his way to align it. Ball down,stick stuck in the ground 15 feet ahead of ball and inline with 150 yard marker on range. Then put alignment sticks down like railroad tracks. It worked! Driver not so great accurate reads I'm assuming cause the ball is teed up 3 inches. Will try again tomorrow with raised monitor 👍 Also walked out on the range and put sticks down 20 yards apart by the 150 marker. That also helped. In my head 15 yards left was actually about 9 yards left from the practice spot
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No the offsets are included in the calculations.Originally posted by cspin View PostThanks for the response. What would be considered a newer model? And it still sounds like you should be hitting from a level surface to get useful readings...or somehow be able to do the math to account for a hitting surface that is known to be "x" degrees out of level. For example, if a hitting surface has an upward slope of 2 degrees...and the GC2 levels itself out...wouldn't you get launch readings that are 2 degrees higher than if the hitting surface were level?
As to what is a newer model I don't know. I can tell you it's somewhere after serial number 2211 which is my unit. A good check would be to get a copy of the tilt calibration software and see if it runs on your GC2.
Be aware that it is critical to have the GC2 perfectly level in all axis prior to running the calibration routine so the unit can tell what the offsets are. You should use some kind of carpenters level and shimming if necessary, Don't assume the floor/mat you are hitting from is levelLast edited by Ronsc1985; 10-18-2017, 12:19 PM.
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I’ve used the GCQuad outside many times and agree alignment is the most key ingredient. A little easier with the Quad due to the alignment stick.
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I've used gc2 and HMT outside. Outside is the truth teller. It's a must.
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Thanks for the response. What would be considered a newer model? And it still sounds like you should be hitting from a level surface to get useful readings...or somehow be able to do the math to account for a hitting surface that is known to be "x" degrees out of level. For example, if a hitting surface has an upward slope of 2 degrees...and the GC2 levels itself out...wouldn't you get launch readings that are 2 degrees higher than if the hitting surface were level?
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Also for all of u that own gc2 hmt and haven't tried it outside please do sometime and post your results please.
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I appreciate all the comments. Paid a lot of money for this thing. Distance measurement is spot on this by the way. So basically when using gc2 outside don't use it with hmt and it won't drive me nuts. Just use it for distance
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Newer models have self leveling which do not need a tilt correction software run. Older models do not. The GC2 has a built in multi axis accelerometer which functions as a level indicator. These chips have an initial offset and long term drift, thus the need for initial calibration and possible periodic redo of the tilt calibration software. Supposedly the newer models do not need this, the older models certainly do. Quite a few people have "fixed" their units by running the software routine.Originally posted by cspin View PostI thought the GC2 was self-leveling, so don't understand the comment #9 above by Ronsc1985 "The azimuth is and the launch angle is picky about how level the GC2 is to the hitting surface."
What if the area you are hitting from isn't flat, say 2 degrees out of level? If this is an issue it would seem that a lot of attention should be directed to making sure the ball is being hit from a level surface. My hitting area is not perfectly level and I know driving ranges can have some slope for drainage purposes.
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I thought the GC2 was self-leveling, so don't understand the comment #9 above by Ronsc1985 "The azimuth is and the launch angle is picky about how level the GC2 is to the hitting surface."
What if the area you are hitting from isn't flat, say 2 degrees out of level? If this is an issue it would seem that a lot of attention should be directed to making sure the ball is being hit from a level surface. My hitting area is not perfectly level and I know driving ranges can have some slope for drainage purposes.Last edited by cspin; 10-17-2017, 10:00 PM.
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