First off I want to say that putting distance in TGC is phenomenal. I think I learned something though this last week that I wanted to share and also get others input. It should be well known to most that distance should be adjusted according to uphill/downhill as 1 inch = 1 foot of adjustment. IMO this works great 95% of the time. IMO you should use this as a guideline though and make further adjustments for severe slopes.
Here's what I found though. So we have the flagstick and a distance that shows (ex. 20' and 5" down). Then we have an aim point to adjust for break. The aim point also has a distance and an uphill/downhill reading. Often this aim point distance will be a lot further away than the flag which is weird. However, you can adjust that length using "s" and "w" keys. This is extremely helpful when putting off the fringe and is a real asset for me. It's kind of vague if you don't adjust that aim point length. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't already know this but I find it very helpful. You can also use this to find the tipping point on a big slope and really refine your hitting length.
Another thing that I found yesterday while using this aim point distance is that often the uphill/downhill amount is not the same when they are at the same distance.
I found this a bit odd and am looking to see if others have noticed this? This could be the missing piece to that 5% extra adjustment needed when figuring out the distance on severe slopes? Curious to read what others have to say on this topic.
Here's what I found though. So we have the flagstick and a distance that shows (ex. 20' and 5" down). Then we have an aim point to adjust for break. The aim point also has a distance and an uphill/downhill reading. Often this aim point distance will be a lot further away than the flag which is weird. However, you can adjust that length using "s" and "w" keys. This is extremely helpful when putting off the fringe and is a real asset for me. It's kind of vague if you don't adjust that aim point length. Maybe I'm the only one that didn't already know this but I find it very helpful. You can also use this to find the tipping point on a big slope and really refine your hitting length.
Another thing that I found yesterday while using this aim point distance is that often the uphill/downhill amount is not the same when they are at the same distance.
I found this a bit odd and am looking to see if others have noticed this? This could be the missing piece to that 5% extra adjustment needed when figuring out the distance on severe slopes? Curious to read what others have to say on this topic.
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