More YEG Alberta

[banjopete]

Greetings, I figured I'd say hello, I'm thrilled to have found this place after checking around the ottawa forum a while back. I'm in Edmonton, Alberta and am hopeful to get some sort of winter golf option sorted out. I've heard there are some big sim golf players here in town which is great. I don't actually currently have the space for this but I'm also currently chatting with a few engineering firms to figure out how to solve this by raising my garage ceiling... if there's a structural engineer on the forum? Anyways thanks for all the info here and I look forward to adding some of my own.

[Dax]

Welcome to the forum!

given that you are in Edmonton, Cory at Par2Pro might become your best friend.

Cheers

jason

[banjopete]

Indeed, I've already exchanged emails with Cory a while back now but it's nice they're local.

[mthunt]

If you’re doing the garage, lowering the floor might be a better option. Garages in your area have 5 foot footings so lowering as many as 3 feet is super simple.

[banjopete]

Thanks for the information, I didn't know this however I should have been more specific. I need the garage to remain functional, much as I wish to build a fancy dedicated space this will just be a part time hitting space. The rest of the time it will need to do garage stuff.

[mthunt]

Ok. Post more on your garage then. Is there a room above it? What is above it? What is the pitch of the roof? 2 car or 1 car? How high is the ceiling.

[banjopete]

So more details about the garage space that I'm working with. It's a 50 year old garage, stick build, 2x4 walls 16"oc studs and ceiling joists, 2x8 ceiling joists, 2x6 rafters, currently at 8' to the bottom of the joists, common rafters, on a gable roof, low pitch 3 in 12. It's a double car garage, 24'x22' with a single, double width door.



rafter ends on the walls



up above the joists



and thinking the solution is either this



or this



As mentioned this part of things won't happen terribly quick but it's fun in the planning phases as most of you know plus golf season is very, very close.

[Miura Mario]

Thatll be super easy.. wouldnt even get an engineer involved to stamp drawings - they will be able to calculate it for you - id just sister collar ties at the lowest height possible for you to swing..

can you give me the exact dimensions of total width and rise along with existing lumber specs and ill asky my engineer for you

[Miura Mario]

Thatll be super easy.. wouldnt even get an engineer involved to stamp drawings - they will be able to calculate it for you - id just sister collar ties at the lowest height possible for you to swing..

can you give me the exact dimensions of total width and rise along with existing lumber specs and ill asky my engineer for you

Worst case you have to do a ridge beam like your last picture - but id avoid it if possible - if you needed to do it - I would furr out the back wall to accomodate the post width youd have to make so that you could a full height screen in there.

[banjopete]

Thatll be super easy.. wouldnt even get an engineer involved to stamp drawings - they will be able to calculate it for you - id just sister collar ties at the lowest height possible for you to swing..

can you give me the exact dimensions of total width and rise along with existing lumber specs and ill asky my engineer for you

I'm all ears and I appreciate the feedback. Interior dimensions are 23'5" front to back, and 21'5" wide. I'd rather go the sistered collar ties route as it's much easier and I could reuse the existing joists potentially. The joists currently as mentioned are single piece 2x8's across the entire span, 16" o.c. and the rafters are 2x6 spaced the same sitting on top of the wall, no birdsmouths just cut level. As for the wood, it's probably doug fir, given the dimension at over 20ft but around here we're all SPF if that's what you were asking for lumber spec wise.

My current idea isn't to do the full garage at the raised height but the more I think about it, I think I might prefer it. It just means re-jigging the door mechanism, door tracks, and some electrical some of which may be easy (the 14/2 stuff), some hard (the 100amp service to the house ). One of the re-work tasks is there are about a half dozen joists with big notches in them towards the garage door end. Somewhere in the history of the garage they figured this was a good solution for a door opener track is all I can imagine. Going up for the whole garage would eliminate this.

Anyways thanks, and I'd be happy to offer more info if it helps. Money savings aside, I'm very happy using a local engineer for the cover my ass parts of this and future liability, the costs aren't too severe, and it'll probably give my wife some peace of mind...