Is there intelligence out there on what kind of lighting may cause issues with reads? I had an LED bulb spotlighted over the unit and have struggled with no reads lately. Switched to an incandescent bulb and it seemed to improve. Coincidence?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Skytrak and lighting?
Collapse
X
-
I noticed some weirdness while playing TGC yesterday related to lighting. My sim is outside, and it was reading shots near flawlessly, no missed shots, no phantom shots, seemingly consistent spin pickup. As soon as the daylight faded and my LED on ambient sensor kicked in, the skytrak started missing shots, triggering shots when clubhead passed the sensor, and some low spin irons that flew targets by upwards of 20%.
Comment
-
Did not trigger.Originally posted by Opticsguruit did not trigger or it did trigger but not produce a reasonable result?
Comment
-
@guru Are you sure the issue is in the IR portion of the produced light. What about flicker? The SkyTrak is taking pictures right? If so, the best bet would be a quad tube CFL with an ELECTRONIC (not magnetic) ballast or a TRUE DC LED. I am also confused by your remark about the LED since most three component _whites_ do not have a component greater than about 650nm, but I have not read the patent. :-) I am really interested because I thought the DC LED would be the way to go since a quad CFL is...sorta big.
@st I found that light position makes a difference. I use a bright halogen desk lamp about 12 inches off the ground and two inches behind the SkyTrak (line of ball flight) with no other light source, and have nearly 100% success. Oddly (from my intuitive point of view) when the light source was in front of the SkyTrak, I had quite a few no reads.
Comment
-
I may try and play with my lighting as well to see if I can improve my results more. I'm playing in a large basement/garage with overhead fluorescent lighting. I may try turning those off in the portion where the sim is and shine light from behind via a lamp or small light. Can someone who has had zero to very few "no reads" post a picture of their setup so others might be able to try and reproduce your results?
Comment
-
I think i have maybe had two shots where it hasn't read. My mat is almost in between these two fluorescent lights. I usually only use the light from the garage door opener on the right. I don't use the fluorescent lights at all, they are too bright. The bulbs are CFL with a plastic diffuser over them.

Originally posted by Vincent_Vega View PostI may try and play with my lighting as well to see if I can improve my results more. I'm playing in a large basement/garage with overhead fluorescent lighting. I may try turning those off in the portion where the sim is and shine light from behind via a lamp or small light. Can someone who has had zero to very few "no reads" post a picture of their setup so others might be able to try and reproduce your results?
Comment
-
Thanks for posting. Going to lower my light output as well.Originally posted by wbond View PostI think i have maybe had two shots where it hasn't read. My mat is almost in between these two fluorescent lights. I usually only use the light from the garage door opener on the right. I don't use the fluorescent lights at all, they are too bright. The bulbs are CFL with a plastic diffuser over them.

Comment
-
Just wanted to share this info. I was asking someone at Foresight Sports what the best lighting was for the GC2. He said Halogen is the only way to go. Must use a halogen on a dimmer switch right above the hitting area. So the other light sources are not advised. I bring this up because I would think Skytrak would be very similar because both are camera based systems. So if you are having problems try the halogen on a dimmer.
YES - Halogen or Direct Can light on a dimmer over the hitting zone.
NO - Incandescent
NO - CFL (fluorescent)
NO - LED
Comment
-
Good point. Would be good to directly here from Skytrak and find out what lighting they recommend. I'm sure it's posted out there somewhere. But would be good to know for sure. Since we all know lighting plays an important factor in all these different simulators.
-
That simply isn't true. I have a GC2 and it works just fine with either florescent, incandescent or any other type of light. The same was true when I had a Vector pro which uses pretty much the same methodology as a Skytrak. As to light level, camera systems need to have an adjustable aperture similar to a normal camera. If the aperture does not adjust correctly the image projected onto the image sensor array is less then optimal and the pixel processing software has a hard time achieving the resolution to get accurate computations. This was very obvious on a Vector Pro where you could display the actual images captured.Last edited by Ronsc1985; 03-19-2016, 01:38 AM.
-
I believe Seth has responded in the past that the lighting should not matter.
These camera LMs are designed to work in full sunlight or in complete darkness to make sure they accomodate all light levels between the 2 extremes.
The GC2 is this way. The Skytrak should be similar.
Comment
-
They can comment all they want on the matter, there seems to be plenty of evidence out there disproving it. Actions > words.Originally posted by goatbarn View PostI believe Seth has responded in the past that the lighting should not matter.
These camera LMs are designed to work in full sunlight or in complete darkness to make sure they accomodate all light levels between the 2 extremes.
The GC2 is this way. The Skytrak should be similar.
Comment
-
Well put me in the camp of lighting (at least indoor lighting) not making a difference. I tested last night with lights off and only using direct halogen lighting. I had my normal 4-5 shots not get captured in my 18 hole round. I think this is just something I'm going to have to accept. All the halogen lights did was make it unbearably hot in the basement. Haha. A few shots not picking up during a round isn't really all that bad. I just wish they could lower that down to zero or even maybe one on a rare occasion. But whatever, not a huge deal considering the price difference in Skytrak and GC2.
On a side note, I've found on my unit at least that if I put the ball an inch or so behind the laser (away from the net/target), that my shots register virtually 100% of the time. No matter the shot type. I just hesitate to use this method because I'm afraid I'll lose a little ball speed. May only do this when friends are over to eliminate them with multiple people playing.
Comment
-
Always curious how well one of these IR Illuminators would work with a skytrak, or ProTee for that matter - the darker the room, the better the experience, IMO.
Comment
-
Yeah. I just figured with the ball sitting slightly behind the laser, that it would be traveling a tad slower when it passed by the cameras. It's highly likely that I'm thinking like a simpleton however and that's not the case. I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the Skytrak.Originally posted by awisnia View PostBall speed?
(Oh man, I just shot Marvin in the face.)
And don't get me started on Pulp Fiction quotes, I could go all day. Haha
Comment
-
My understanding is that with that ball position you would not lose ball speed. If you get no non reads in that position, I would continue doing that.Originally posted by Vincent_Vega View Post
Yeah. I just figured with the ball sitting slightly behind the laser, that it would be traveling a tad slower when it passed by the cameras. It's highly likely that I'm thinking like a simpleton however and that's not the case. I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the Skytrak.
And don't get me started on Pulp Fiction quotes, I could go all day. Haha
Comment
Comment