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**htdumps** · 02-10-2019, 01:00 AM

IDS Ueye 3140-cp 50 mm lens. https://youtu.be/yAoPVWre3mQ will post full review once I get more lenses. All captures were done with OBS.

**htdumps** · 02-10-2019, 04:00 AM

Camera settings and lighting:
320x240
2564 fps
light : GKOLED 30Watt Bullet LED Spotlight, Narrow Beam Angle COB LED Round Spotlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07171H9YP..._I84xCbDY5D8S7 via @amazon

**htdumps** · 02-12-2019, 04:31 PM

Was able to bump up the FPS with a 8mm lens. Im now at 3257 fps

https://youtu.be/Nij-VEDZGUk

**Ironstrokes** · 02-12-2019, 05:54 PM

Originally posted by htdumps View Post

Was able to bump up the FPS with a 8mm lens. Im now at 3257 fps

https://youtu.be/Nij-VEDZGUk

That looks really good actually! That's almost a color version of the uneekor with that angle and how you have the lighting and all. Starting to make me seriously think about picking that camera up

Did you have to give it an obnoxious amount of light to get it to look that nice though? Don't want a giant spot light bring distracting.

Also my knowledge of cameras and the specs and all is almost nothing, so don't know if it's a dumb question, but it's there a waty to get these cameras to work with an IR filter or something so you don't need all the light and it still comes back black and white?

**FaultyClubs** · 02-13-2019, 07:26 PM

The color ones won't work for IR. Monochrome will although with reduced efficiency. There are dedicated NIR cameras with higher efficiency but I don't know what speed they will run (never looked). The uneekor video said they are running 3200 fps as i recall and appear from the video to be using banks of NIR LED lights.

I guess you see three main ways is done for capturing club at impact.

1) high fps with continuous visible light via spotlights and some light pollution on screen. There will always be some blur unless you buy the $100k ultra fast cameras. 3000fps is not fast when it comes to freezing the golf ball!

2) high fps with continuous nir light and no light pollution. Some blur as above.

3) either visible or NIR flash and (usually) lower fps. Even visible flash has little effect on screen image since the flash is so fast and you tend to be preoccupied at point of impact so don't notice. No blur though.

If you just want club/ball at point of impact then #3 can be much cheaper than the other options. That's what I do...basically webcam and flash. Better picture than the expensive high fps approach but a photo (think "photo finish" type picture).

**FaultyClubs** · 02-14-2019, 04:55 AM

From the video posted at the beginning of the uneeker thread it looked like continuous ir lighting for the club camera, continuous visible lighting for the color swing camera and I wouldn't be surpised if their spin camera was ir flash ( but maybe they try to do it off their club camera i don't know..they seem to require marked balls which shouldn't be required if done "properly"). Anyway that was just my initial impression when I saw the video, maybe if I looked again I'd see something different. And don't they claim full club data? If so I didn't notice that part in the video. Sorry I haven't been paying attention to the uneeker system so don't really know what it does.

Here's a flash photo for comparison. It's cool seeing the ball compress. This one is using the kayeton gs $80 camera but the $40 elp works too. They are hard to tell apart but the kayeton is just a little better image quality generally.

**Joshua1745** · 02-18-2019, 08:17 PM

To understand your using Kinovea but I'm confused on how you get a usable replay using flash. Are you using a microphone to trigger the recording? At some point in the recording a flash is triggered, so do you have 1 frame of the video exposed, while the rest of the frames are black bc of the short shutter speed?

**Joshua1745** · 02-18-2019, 08:34 PM

To freeze the ball and allow for more bandwidth you can use a short shutter/exposure time but decrease your fps. You will still need the same amount of lighting. I've gone thru a few cameras trying to get some decent recordings without an insane amount of light but have had trouble. Another thing you can look into is firewire cameras since they are now obsolete and cheap but many are using similar sensors. Main thing is the larger the sensor the less light required.

**htdumps** · 02-20-2019, 07:18 AM

High Speed Camera testing.

IDS 3140-cp

Pros.

Extremely high frame rates.
Great image quality.
Options galore for people who like to tinker.

Cons

Definitely not plug and play
At higher frame rates more light is required, for example 3000 lumens plus.
Expensive.

Sample Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dGA8LPYdbc

The channel has more videos also.

Software Integration

Swing Catalyst, works out of the box however it will not work at higher frame rates.
Trackman works out of the box however it will not work at higher frame rates. Thanks @LEOMODE for testing.
Kinovea, works but capped to ~860 fps.
OBS works with any frame rate setting it up through the IDS software first.
Motionview, works out of the box however it will not work at higher frame rates.

Personal Thoughts

This camera is not for the faint of heart. You have to deal with lenses, IDS software, and generally be well versed in tweaking camera parameters. I bought this with one goal in mind, capturing impact.

At the camera's default settings a well lit room is plenty of light, however you now have an expensive camera that is only running at 94 fps. Adjusting the cameras clock speed can bump it up to 220+ but the amount of light needed is not conducive to a sim environment. If you want to take the camera outside with a laptop you will have stunning images at all frame rates on a sunny day. It must be a powerful laptop though.

Light. My setup environment consists of the camera mounted in multiple locations, ceiling, floor, wall, etc.. I am using a 3000 lumens spotlight on the ball. You will notice the flicker in the videos that the camera does not like just any bright light. I have yet to test it with "Photography" lighting (think expensive).

Lenses. This camera does not come with any lens. Trying to figure out which one will work for you is all part of the complicated setup process. 50mm gives me stunning images at 9' but I only get impact. 4mm at 9' gives me full view but not face impact. You really need to figure out what you want to capture first before settling on lenses. The best combination for me was 9' with 25mm lens.

Software. Here is the major drawback of this camera. It works fine out of the box but its like having a Lamborghini with square wheels. The camera has to be "programed" though the IDS software then saved to the cameras memory for it to work at higher speeds. Unfortunately this breaks almost every video capture software I could find. Except OBS, which also has issues of its own but definitely is a workable solution to using the camera.

Who is this for? If you want to capture impact then this camera is for you or at least one from the same 31** family. You need to have patience and the ability to tweak the camera using the IDS GUI. If this sentence didn't make sense to you I would hold off until the software side of the camera catches up to a more user friendly method. If all you want is swing capture the cheaper $89 usb cameras are the way to go.

**FaultyClubs** · 02-20-2019, 08:33 AM

Good write up ht. It always boils down to software with these cameras. And of course lighting is an issue indoors.

Which version of Kinovea worked to 860 fps and do you know what capped the limit?

Are you sure OBS really worked at all the rates? OBS drops frames when it can't keep up but doesn't tell you. You can add a text source and then reference it in replay source and add FPS: %FPS% in the text field to see what fps replay source actually captured. What cpu do you have? A fast enough cpu might be OK.

What is the maximum frame rate you can do with the camera and still use all the sensor area? Doing that with a 1/3000 shutter will give the same blur but be much brighter. At 3000+ fps the camera is throwing away most of the light because it's only using a small portion of the sensor.

**htdumps** · 02-20-2019, 10:18 AM

Originally posted by FaultyClubs View Post

Good write up ht. It always boils down to software with these cameras. And of course lighting is an issue indoors.

Which version of Kinovea worked to 860 fps and do you know what capped the limit?

Are you sure OBS really worked at all the rates? OBS drops frames when it can't keep up but doesn't tell you. You can add a text source and then reference it in replay source and add FPS: %FPS% in the text field to see what fps replay source actually captured. What cpu do you have? A fast enough cpu might be OK.

What is the maximum frame rate you can do with the camera and still use all the sensor area? Doing that with a 1/3000 shutter will give the same blur but be much brighter. At 3000+ fps the camera is throwing away most of the light because it's only using a small portion of the sensor.

Kinovea beta builds. the stable one did not pick the camera at all. What I suspect capped the limit is the way kinovea is handling the camera. It always takes the cameras default settings instead of what is saved to the camera's parameter set.

Ill run the test with OBS but im fairly certain its capturing the frame since im getting quality videos on par with the IDS software's built in video capture.I have a 16c AMD Threadripper. But some of the videos were taken with a 4790k.

The max is 400 fps and it is much brighter. Still so many thinks to learn about this camera.

**dborden0** · 02-21-2019, 05:54 AM

How many fps do you think you need to capture impact?

**StuartG** · 02-21-2019, 02:10 PM

Just a thought - not aware of what might be available equipment wise but strobes have long been used in the scientific community to collect clear, detailed and very small time increment motion data in the absence of video cameras with high frame rates.

Along that line, I would think that a lower fps camera could be used to detect the club head approaching the ball and trigger the use of an IR strobe, and separate IR camera with longer exposure times to actually capture very clear and multiple positions of the head and/or ball in each frame. Can't say for sure but probably pretty similar to what's going on with the Foresight units.