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  • New build questions (Lots of them)

    I've been trolling here for a while and finally decided to ask some questions that I just can't seem to figure out through all the reading I have done. I have a 40x40 pole barn that I will be turning into a mancave in the very near future and want the golf simulator to be the focal point for entertainment and watching movies. I have a 7 year old boy I am getting into golf and looking at either the Trackman (can take to the range) or Full Swing (opinions on these would be appreciated too) set up to help him learn the game and grow with. Space is not a concern for this really as I will build the mancave around it. I've thought about just shelling out the dough to either Track Man or Full Swing to do just do it how I want, but from reading all of this I think I can save some serious cash on building the easy stuff and spending more on technology upgrades, i.e. cameras, better sound system, etc. So I will just ask the questions that have me a bit confused at the moment, hopefully numbering can make it easier for you to answer and most importantly me to follow. Appreciate any help and advice on this. Also, if anyone is in the Central IL area, I would buy the beers to take a peek at your setup and ask questions.

    1. Being on a concrete slab, should I build a wood 2x4 platform or use something like dricore to build on? I will be doing a putting green on it as I want it to be full size area if I get a Trackman. Say 20x25 or 18x20ish or so, just rough numbers but get the drift that size not an issue with this project like some have. Any pictures of wood flooring and screen framing set ups?

    2. Should I do a wood frame for the screen or still use EMT? I think wood would be the more permanent option and can create a wow factor, which I want.

    3. The ceiling joists are 14' tall and everything is wide open right now. I don't want a drunk buddy (most likely drunk me) coming over and hitting anything, so hoping to have max height. If I have a 16x9 screen, how high can the projector be? Can it be moved to a location that is behind or in front that keeps it out of harms way?

    4. How far out do you recommend the walls come before using say a curtain that pulls out, or can I just do a curtain? I want to have some visibility from the sides if I have a party going on, so it does not block too much of the screen, but I know I will have to have something above to block balls. Trackman says like 12 feet from hitting to the screen is optimal which makes wonder where I would start some ceiling block.

    5. How do people attach padding behind the screen? I guess if I had a wood frame I could add more spots to attach a pad or something. Anyone got pictures of this set up?

    6. To sell this to the wife, I need to have an awesome movie experience. Do the premium screens work? I always see them with wrinkles from where they flex from the ball hitting them, this can't be good for viewing a movie or sports. Do you use another drop down screen or something specifically for movies? Say hiding a motorized drop down screen that is tucked safely above the hitting net,

    I probably have more but this is the main things I have been thinking about. Below is something I designed on a landscape design program. The walls would not be that far out on the one side of the simulator but it was the best picture I could find to download to the program.

    GO ILLINI!


  • #2
    Is the only allure of the Trackman being able to take it to the range? If it were me, I would save a ton of cash and get a Uneekor EYEXO and permanently install in your sim room and get one of the $4-500 portable launch monitors if you have to have something for outdoor range use.

    Comment


    • Bmartin15
      Bmartin15 commented
      Editing a comment
      I guess I don't have a set preference but Trackman and Full Swing are what I have studied the most. I will look into Uneekor, haven't heard of it before coming on this site.

  • #3
    A number of questions and I think most details can be found in some of the threads over the past few months on some people’s builds. However, I will try and answer some questions for you.

    1. You are correct this can all be done yourself. However, I would suggest having a look at TMs flex cage. Also, I would give them a call as they can give you a great deal of information regarding your build.

    2. I would do the wood frame as you noted. A cage would be just fine, but I think building out your frame and then using angle iron would look nice.

    3. 12 feet is perfect and I just learned today that a recent hardware upgrade allowed for your strike location to be 7 feet in front of the TM unit. I would go for as much space as possible, but please note that TM also just announced today that their next software update (in Feb) will only require the unit seeing one revolution of the ball to measure spin. This thus means only needing 8.5 feet or so of ball flight. With that said, they still suggest 10 feet. This is something to discuss with TM for sure. However, I think you 12 feet sounds good.

    4. If you go with TM, the. A lighting solution will be required. Again, there was some discussion today that you only need to ensure that your hitting location is lite appropriately. This is something else to discuss with TM as it will be important for your build.

    5. Given your ceiling height, I think raising things up a little would be nice, but I don’t think this would be necessary provided you use turf that is padded. However, your hitting mat might need you to reconsider in order to make everything flush. Also, if you want some holes for putting, then you will need to raise things a little.

    6. Given your ceiling height, perhaps having netting to catch high shots could be an option. You could also back up your screen with netting. I suggest archery netting for both behind screen and also above as something to consider.

    7. Screen size is always a tough question and it will really depend on your projector. For me, I prefer 16 by 10, but think a 16 by 9 image would be fine given that you could build something for a 16 foot wide screen. This will also open up a lot of projector options for you.

    8. If you are going to use this space for movies as well, then I would consider a drop down projection scree. This will of course limit you using netting to catch high shots as the screen will need to come down from the ceiling. If you go the route of a different screen (which I would do), then you will need to get a rail or something that allows the projector to love back and forth given the different screen dimensions. I am not sure there is a projector with memory settings that could adjust for this, but you never know. Have you considered two screens and two projectors? Given the size of your space this might be an option. Also, consider getting a screen that cuts down on ambient light interfering with image. Screen innovations black diamond or slate might be a good place to start.

    9. You will need to have something on the floor to protect your TM from spills and bumps. Lots of pics of solutions around this.

    10. End of 2021 TM expects to have over 150 courses.

    11. I would do side curtains to open up the space when you are not using the sim. Have a look on the TM website for some sim install pics (Twitter or Facebook as well). As you will see what you could do.

    12. Have a good read through the forum on projectors etc. Sounds like you will be going 4K and if so, there are some good suggestions that others have used.

    hope this helps get you started, but I am sure others will come in as well with some great thoughts for you to consider.

    welcome to the forum!

    Comment


    • Bmartin15
      Bmartin15 commented
      Editing a comment
      1. I will certainly ask about the frame, just might not be a permanent and eye catching as I might be able to make.
      2. I will probably do the wood frame, would I need any angle iron? I have seen some people on here used eye bolts and screw them in the wood. Still you ball bungees or something that way.
      3. Great to hear they are making improvements, I will certainly be in touch with them or whoever to get correct specs.
      4. Will reach out to them soon.
      5.Looks like building a subfloor with 2x4's is the best way. Would it be good to put some sound dampener material down?
      6. I may look at some sort of black material similar to what I would use on the walls, have some folds in it.
      7. I am thinking that 16'x9' would be the best option, maybe a little bigger for the screen and then add material around it to make the right size. Looking at info from Carls and GungHO golf.
      8. Not sure two projectors would be in the budget. I did look at screens briefly and for a motorized 16'x9' screen is really really high. Going to have to think about options for this solution.
      9. I will certainly have a plan for this, with young kids likely coming over it is a must. Also for my buddies that drink a bit to much, lol.
      10. Great to hear, I am just getting into the details of best playing options. Looks like Trackman and Full Swing are good but limited and pricey compared to using something that could play TGC.
      11. I will likely do this, I have seen some folks on hear that have gotten good heavy black material for pretty good prices. My be something I get automated as well.
      12. I have some old buddies that work for Best Buy still and will certainly look at Projector Central and use them as a resource as well. Technology is not something I am too worried about as I know a bit more about that.

      Thanks for all the help, you certainly helped with some questions.

  • #4
    With the ceiling height you have, a short throw projector is a no-brainer. Get the best and brightest you can afford for picture quality. Make sure to match it up to your screen size aspect wise. There are plenty of calculators out there to help you figure it out like Projector Central. And do keep lurking, asking, and keep us informed on your progress!

    Comment


    • Bmartin15
      Bmartin15 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks- I have been on Projector Central a few times already. Once I get things lined up I plan to post the progress.

  • #5
    You may want to reconsider the location of the skeeball or whatever games. Those are right in shanksville, especially if you're talking about shortening the side walls. I definitely would not want to be playing those while someone is hitting.

    Comment


    • Bmartin15
      Bmartin15 commented
      Editing a comment
      Lol, I will likely have the curtain that pulls out. Or just make someone wear a beer helmet while they play skeeball.

  • #6
    1. For a floor, if you're a DIY guy it's pretty simple to build a subfloor with 2x4's and plywood. Cut holes for putting cups and cover it all in turf.

    3. In regards to the projector, you have plenty of height to keep it safely out of harms way. Learn about vertical offset (if you haven't already). That's the distance from the lens to the top edge of the image (for a ceiling mounted projector). With a 9 foot screen and 14 foot ceilings, you have 5 feet to work with. If you're really concerned about putting it as high as possible, look for a projector with a high vertical offset (like a couple feet). That way you could hang it around 11 feet in the air which is plenty and then the vertical offset will drop the image down to 9 feet. The best place for a projector IMO is right over the golf ball. It won't get hit by anything there.

    4. In regards to enclosure roofs and walls, definitely have a plan for something up top. Hitting from 12 feet away with only a 9 foot high screen is dicey. Lob wedges are likely to go right over it, especially if you're hitting a flop shot. And wedges generally hit the upper half of the screen and then spin straight up the screen. Since you have so much ceiling height, you can place a net above the screen that goes vertically up toward the ceiling a few feet with a small roof at the top (couple feet is fine). If you just came straight out with the roof at only 9 feet high, I think I would worry about hitting wedges right over the roof. I have a 9 foot screen and I hit from 7.5 feet and flop shots go right up into the very top of the screen where it meets the roof at 9 feet high. Hitting from another 4.5 feet back and those are easily going over.

    Five feet of depth is pretty standard for walls for people who hit from 10 feet. I have walls that are only 2.5 feet deep but again, I hit from closer up so I can get away with that. From 12 feet, I would want at least 5 feet minimum. (And again, find a different spot for those arcade games. If you're worried about a drunk buddy hitting a projector I'd be more worried about a drunk buddy killing someone playing skeeball lol).

    6. Golf impact screens are fine for movies, although the image isn't quite as crisp as a dedicated movie screen. Golf impact screens have to be designed to absorb golf balls hitting them at high speeds and as a result, they are a bit textured. Still, it's not like movies are a bad experience or anything, especially if you have a 4K projector. I stream sports on my simulator and it's really only a small step down from my living room TV in terms of image quality. (And I only have a 1080p projector).

    That being said ..... a buddy of mine has a projector and screen with one of those freestanding easels like this =

    https://www.toolots.com/trs120.html?...YaAst2EALw_wcB

    You can get something like that along with a dedicated movie screen. For movie time (or sports watching time), you can just set up the easel in front of the impact screen. Not as sexy as a screen that drops down from the enclosure roof, but just another option. His collapses down and the screen rolls up inside of it so it's very easy to store.
    Last edited by 3on3putt; 01-28-2021, 02:40 PM.

    Comment


    • Bmartin15
      Bmartin15 commented
      Editing a comment
      1. Yea, I think the subfloor is the way to go. Should I put down some gym flooring first as well? Maybe some sound dampeners, or would moisture be an issue. This is a pole barn that will be heated and cooled but still may sweat.

      3. Thanks for the tips, I will certainly look for that in the projector. My thought is the higher I can get it the safer. I don't want to feel like myself or someone can hit it on accident.

      4. Once I get the dimensions I will know a bit more. I commented above that maybe some sort of material for the walls and ceiling is the way to go. Having material like stage curtains. LOL- the skeeball area will be safe I promise.

      Only thing with the screen is I would like it to be the same size as the hitting area 16'x9' and those seem to be way high in price 7-15k for motorized. Not sure the best option here. Probably get a high end impact screen and use it for a while and see what I think first. Maybe get the moving screen down the road if we use it a lot.

    • 3on3putt
      3on3putt commented
      Editing a comment
      1. Not real sure on the need to protect against moisture. It is wood after all, so I suppose it certainly wouldn't hurt for longevity.

      I agree with foregoing the movie screen for now. At least test out some movies on the impact screen first to see if you (or the wife lol) are happy with the picture quality. You (she) may find that it's more than sufficient and then you don't have to do anything extra at all. Make sure you have some good control of the lighting in the barn as that makes a big difference with picture quality. Try to eliminate any sunlight coming in from doors and windows.

  • #7
    Originally posted by 3on3putt View Post
    You may want to reconsider the location of the skeeball or whatever games. Those are right in shanksville, especially if you're talking about shortening the side walls. I definitely would not want to be playing those while someone is hitting.
    May wanna get a cup for them too.
    Last edited by Jeff Tilley; 01-29-2021, 12:12 AM.

    Comment


    • #8
      If you’re gonna build a stance platform with a putting surface like I did, then get the straightest lumber you can find so you get truer roll. I used 3/4” sanded plywood over 2x4’s, filled in all the screw holes with wood putty, sanded til smooth, applied carpet glue, then the turf. Make sure to cut out your holes before laying turf if you go that route.

      Comment


      • Bmartin15
        Bmartin15 commented
        Editing a comment
        Great info, got a carpenter buddy helping me plan this and will relay that info.
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