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  • Starting my garage buildout

    Just a great forum with a ton of useful information! First post here.

    I'm beginning my enclosure buildout this week: 8' x 10', 1" EMT, and PR20 impact screen. Wanted to get a sense as to how to estimate the tension required for my impact screen. I've ordered it at exactly 8' x 10' and am planning to use 6" bungees wrapped around the EMT. Nothing too unusual with that, I suppose. But, before I trim down the EMT to 8' height, I was thinking I might need to add 2-4" to provide just a little bit of vertical tension to the screen. Can't really accomplish that on the width, as the EMT is already at 10', so I may be adding waviness by modifying the height differently from the width (in relation to the PR20 sizing).

    I figure the three-way corner brackets on the top and bottom add 1" each to the height, so there's a little bit of tension already being added....anyone else experiment with this, or am I just overthinking it?

  • #16
    Received my netting from West Coast Netting. Exactly as described and excellent quality.

    I basically ordered two pieces: the PR20 Impact Screen (8' x 10')and a black netting used for the top and sides (one piece measuring 48" by 26'). This piece covers only the sides and top and is bunjeed separately to the front poles and jointly with the PR20 on the back poles.

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    • #17
      The PR20 went up as advertised and is really a good product. High quality finish and grommets. Hung both eta alone as my helpers were off doing other things...it can be done!

      As the material settled, the waviness seemed to disappear...really none to speak of as the night wore on.

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      • #18
        Up and running after some difficulties with establishing a connection with the ST.

        In these pictures, you can see the tool cart with my iPad Air on top, as well as the alignment stick used to improve targeting. I found that I originally aligned the parallel to my target line (say, the edge of the mat)...and I was rewarded with quite a few shots missing left and/or hooking. Using the alignment stick, I felt I could put the St right on my intended target, given its slightly different angle toward it, by getting behind the stick and aiming it at the target on screen.

        As I mentioned previously, I added an inexpensive fluorescent light under the cart, so I could have better lighting on the ball, while reducing ambient light on the screen. Definitely worked as I had hoped. The camera also catches more waviness from the side angle than the from...I was surprised how much was still in the material, not having noticed it at all while I hilt balls...

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        • #19
          Today, I hope to do some more testing. Still to do:

          1. Improve the image quality, most likely by adding some blackout cloth

          2. Figure out how to resize the image based on the iPad output at 4:3. I think I can do this through the projector, somewhat.

          3. I'm planning on doing a wrap of the top and sides with a black velour fabric to improve the contrast...that had to be special ordered and will be in on Monday...

          4. Possible new hitting mat replacement. I've used this for about 4-5 years now...it's a DW Quail, and has worn out a bit...

          Will keep updating here as I make the finishing touches...

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          • #20
            Did some testing this morning as starting point for accuracy and calibrating...I'd conclude pretty accurate results, at least 90%+, if not better based on feel. Couple mishits in there felt just as they displayed.

            Data is for my 9 iron, a 135 yard club for me. Of 20 shots taken, 5 did not register. Average distance was spot on as well, but still a variance in overall distance control, which is on me as a player....

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            • #21
              Nice. Well done!

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              • #22
                Here's a look at my finished enclosure (are we ever really finished...?)

                Added the blackout cloth to the back by hanging it from the same bungees as the PR20, leaving the length to hang freely about 2" from touching the ground. It definitely helped the image brightness. It's in two sections, approximately 58" width and overlaps by about 2" in the middle (meaning that the edges of about 6 inches are not covered). Brightness gain was probably 15% greater than not having it....I definitely would recommend it, if you're chasing the best image possible. It did add a little bit of noise, as it's a 70/30 synthetic/cotton blend, so the impact noise is up slightly...a good tradeoff in my view.

                Draped the black velour fabric over the entire enclosure and I really like that addition. It certainly helps with image contrast and the overall look of the enclosure...good investment. Have not affixed it to the enclosure, it is literally just placed on the top and drapes over the sides, almost to the floor. Did not move an inch during my first practice session with it last night, so I'll probably just leave it as is. Looks cool, I'd say.

                Fine tuned the projected image size and quality through the projector settings. Am now reasonably happy with the picture geometry and brightness...could it be better with my home theater projector? Yes...that's a beast though, a JVC weighing in at about 35 lbs. This image is really pretty good as long as the garage is reasonably dim...no issues at all with any of the on screen data or info (other than the lack of any real SkyTrak targets to aim at, but that's a separate issue).

                Am still evaluating whether or not I need/want a separate LCD on the wall directly opposite (perpendicular to the projector screen) my mat. I'd guess that if/when the SIM integration comes, I might want a gaming PC with higher (projector is 720p) resolution, if 1080p is supported.

                Lastly, threw together a small box/platform for the SkyTrak (envisioned a mishit taking out the whole unit). It's a pretty basic box with a piece of 8" x 10" Lexan (supposedly shatterproof) velcroed to the front of it. My guess is it could take a shot and survive now. Time will tell, I suppose. Haven't hit any shots yet to confirm the device will not miss shots with any more frequency...if so, I'll cut out a window to give it clear view. The laser does fine coming through, however.

                Really appreciate the input and ideas that helped me make decisions about this build and hope that my efforts help someone else along the way. Will post changes when I eventually make some (inevitable)...

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                • #23
                  Agolfman, how's the 1" EMT holding up? (any movement, regrets you didnt use >1", etc) I'm thinking about doing the same, with close to the same dimensions. you have any issues with lob wedges missing the net?

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                  • #24
                    I've been using 1" conduit now for over a year with no regrets.

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                    • #25
                      Hey GolfMan,

                      That looks great! I think I saw a YouTube video describing this type of install, is that what you followed? Is the PR20 netting, the screen also, or did you buy a separate screen? Not sure I understand how the netting/screen fit together?

                      Any details you have on the equipment is great, keep them coming, I'm hoping to do a build of my own soon, and will need the details you are providing.

                      Thanks,
                      -Brett

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                      • #26
                        So the 1" conduit has been perfect for me...no issues whatsoever...it's light and can be moved easily when I need to adjust the position slightly or get at some of the various garage tools, etc that are behind the enclosure (ladders, etc). I can't say if it's better/worse than if I had gone with a larger diameter, but I know it works and can work effectively with the netting I've used. No complaints and honestly my guests are pretty impressed that something like this can even be built in xpensively and so solidly.

                        On the PR20, the only issue is lumen output of the projector...mine is hovering around 500 lumens or so based on its specs. It's an older projector (my original HT projector that I replaced last year). The PR20 is both a screen and a net, it's designed that way. It is simply hanging from the EMT by 6" bungees that are strung through the grommets installed in the PR20. I have "doubled" up some black out cloth in the back of the PR20 to help brighten the light a little, and it has done that well. It has probably added a slight bit of additional impact noise, but it's not significant. The PR20 will have some light pass through, meaning you don't "see" that light returned to your eye/brain, so you lose brightness in the image...plan on that if you're using the PR20, which I would recommend without hesitation.

                        I've noted only one issue with the garage setup (and I'm in New England)...most concerns were about whether it would be warm enough in the winter, that hasn't been an issue. But on the warm days/evenings, it does get pretty hot and that's something. I didn't expect, but so it goes...

                        The biggest modification I've made was to replace the SkyTrak with a Flightscope X2. No contest in the comparison between the two. I bought it used and did well on the price, so while not a wash, it was worth it to me. I've found that the use of the various combines (stock and custom) has been fantastic for practice and evaluating my ball flight.

                        More info than you'd probably like to read, but I recommend some study of this article for anyone interested in an overview of the "new" ball flight laws....some interesting stuff here, particularly as you contrast it against your club data.

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                        • #27
                          And I can also confirm earlier posts about balls hitting the EMT pipes...they will be returned to you...at approximately 80+mph depending on which club you have in your hands....

                          Shanks have not been an issue, but my son is prone to hit the top crossbar with a 56* SW, if he doesn't creep the mat closer by a foot or two. He has even cleared the cage altogether once or twice, which was a little startling to say the least....I'd guess this is the one are which some innovative solutions would benefit us home users. Suffice to say, as I was warned, the pipe insulation actually does nothing to diffuse the ball impact. And when I say nothing, I mean absolutely nothing...the metallic clang and speed of return is exactly as if they were not there at all. It does, however give slightly better aesthetics, if that's important to you...looks very finished and professional.

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                          • #28
                            Thanks. I'll go the 1" EMT route. I'm actually thinking about not having a front crossbar (#2) and trying to extend the netting out about 5' or so to help with any lob wedge situations. I'm assuming you're seeing contact with the pipes on the horizontal bars running "perpendicular" (1, 2 and to some extent, 3, in the image), or are you talking about the vertical poles too? I can see the vertical poles (8, 9, 10, 11) being an issue on mis-hits. 4, 5, 6 and 7 don't concern me as i'd think the ball flight wouldn't return back.

                            My thoughts on 8,9,10,11 are to have some looser fitting netting to help catch and at least slow down any errant shots, albeit a less 'clean' look like you have with the nets taut.

                            i also thought about having it taper back, with the front being slightly higher than the rear, but still am thinking thru this (4, 5 pitched upwards slightly, and 8/11 longer than 9/10). my garage door opener has a center rail that's about 8" higher than the sides, and I wanted to leave the cage in place and effectively roll the screen up and drive thru it when not in use. I like the fact that it's lightweight as you stated as i might try and move it outside when it's nice out, etc.

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                            • #29
                              I'd say we've had 5-6 pole strikes...if I recall correctly, I'd order them 2, 11, and 3 along a frequency distribution. With the most inexperienced golfer hitting 11, and 3. I did see one of my guests miss the net completely once...not pretty. Suffice to say that he was an in law and I left my thoughts unsaid...discretion and all....

                              The crossbars add a lot of stability to the cage...not sure I would go without one of them, or what it would do if you left one out. You could definitely move the cage outside, but it's at least a two person job...or you'd be dragging it and probably lose a bungee or two.

                              Two things to also keep in mind: you are better off moving the car out of the second bay in your garage (obvious, but you never know where a ricochet could go...). And I don't think you mentioned the secondary net which extends from both sides over the ceiling of the cage. I have this mine on the same bungees as the PR20 where it abuts the PR20. On the other pipes it obviously is attached by itself.

                              One other thing and it's a preference type item. I might have ordered the PR20 slightly smaller if I had to do it over again. Rather than 96" x 120", I might have thought about going 2-3" smaller on both dimensions....it would have given me a slightly tauter screen as I have a very slight vertical wave from ball strikes. I can manually smooth this out a bit by hand, but it does exist. Not sure what the secondary issues of a tighter screen would be. Maybe more active bounce back...maybe the wave could even be worse, I up just don't know. It really has no bearing on image quality, so it's kind of irrelevant. A last 2% type of item.

                              I'm not at all unhappy, just looking for the best experience I can get to, but without overspending. Your mileage may vary...good luck!

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                              • #30
                                thanks for the info. i was hoping to make the cage 'portable' in the fact that the sides would be solid (rectangles basically) and the cross bars (1 and 3) removable, and omitting 2 altogether. my space is a 1 car garage, and it may be easier for me to hit towards the door opening, though it shrinks my overall target size to about what you have (versus using the blank larger wall opposite the door). as a result i'd likely remove 3 unless in use (or i'd be driving over it), and remove 1 and 3, if moving outside, carrying the side pieces and reassembling 1 and 3.

                                i see your point about stability, i tend to think of things in zero gravity, so i would likely need some additional bracing or lower the roof. the netting would be more draped due to lack of #2 and to keep ricochets from hitting the center garage drive rail. i may build in extra feet or anchors on the garage walls/ceiling to help combat this if needed.

                                also... for the in-law comment, glad no one, or thing, was injured. hilarious at any rate. i will likely be very selective on who can use this but there's a 6yo that might want to, and a female that I'm dreaming will share my enthusiasm to hit balls all day long, should i build this.

                                for the screen i'm considering the hq raw from p2p, and ideally roll it up on the pipe (1) it would be wrapped around (somehow... thinking about a winding mechanism), as i'd need to drive thru that portion when in garage 'mode'.

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