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My Fold Up Golf Sim build V2 UK

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  • My Fold Up Golf Sim build V2 UK

    Back at the beginning of 2015, I had a go at turning my 2 car garage into a simulator room. One of the main issues I faced was that I had to have it collapsable... so that the room could still get 2 cars in if required. It took me several months to get it to where I wanted, but I was never really happy with it. I did a build thread here: http://golfsimulatorforum.com/forum/...lator-build-uk

    Due to the fact that I'd already spent a load on a GC2, I was trying to do the room on a small budget. Unfortunately, you get what you pay for, and as a result I had a pretty low quality setup.
    The screen was only attached to the ceiling, and was made of the archery weave netting. The image quality was pretty poor, and the screen continually looked warped, wrinkled, and out of shape.


    Having spent a lot of time on this forum, I saw lots of other peoples build ideas and got envious! There are some fantastic examples out there, and mine was pretty poor. I hardly used it because it was a hassle to hook and unhook my curtains all the time, and I also felt like I had to tidy away my astroturf boards when it wasn't being used.

    There was some severe flooding in my town at the beginning of 2016. Thankfully I was barely effected, but there was still enough water for my screen / curtains to get soaked - as well as my garage floor getting damaged. This gave me the incentive to start again.
    Firstly - the water had got in under my "up and over" garage door. By replacing this with a roller door, I could ensure that I had a tight seal, which water wouldn't be able to penetrate. The added bonus being that it removed the requirement for runner rails inside the garage. Much more room to swing!

    The next step was to get the floor replaced.
    In order to prevent me needing astroturf or similar, I went with a "wet pour" floor, which is a safety surface. Essentially it's a covering of crumb rubber, and looks really good. I had it done in a dark grey colour with a silver speckle through it. They usually use this type of surface in kids play areas as it's soft when kids fall off the swings etc. I had them lay a thinner layer (20mm) so that a bouncing golf ball stops after a bounce or two - unlike my previous concrete floor which acted like a ping pong table!


    From reading everyone else's build threads, I realised that the best way to attach a screen was to a frame - not directly to the ceiling!
    The problem for me was getting a frame that I could make disappear. I spent a lot of time thinking about this and eventually came up with the idea of hinging it to the ceiling. This was only made possibly by the removal of the garage door runners - so another benefit for changing the door! I spent a lot of time deliberating between timber and steel for my frame, and eventually decided on 26.9mm tube clamp from https://www.themetalstore.co.uk/products/tube-clamp. It's very similar to the 1" EMT piping lots of people on here use, but the ends clamp together using a hex bolt.
    As I wanted the frame to be hinged from the ceiling, it had to be pretty sturdy. I drew loads of sketches, and finally came up with this:


    I was going to use the wall mount brackets as ceiling mounts. If I didn't tighten the hex bolt inside them, they would act as a hinge. I checked with the manufacturer, who confirmed this would work. I ordered it slightly lower than my ceiling, so that I could attach it to a giant piece of timber. That way I could ensure that I got ceiling joists. The good thing about themetalstore, is that you can specify the exact lengths you want, and they cut them for you. All I had to do was assemble it like meccanno when it arrived! I used a torque wrench to ensure that all the bolts were tightened to the same level. The last thing I want is something coming undone when its folded up against the ceiling and my car is underneath it!!!
    Last edited by p3eps; 08-02-2016, 09:47 PM.

  • #2
    Once the frame was in place and hinged, it was time to start thinking about getting a decent screen. After a bit of research, there was only really one choice... the Par2Pro HQ screen!
    I sent loads of emails back and forth with Cory about how things would be set up and my requirements, and eventually I took the plunge and ordered some stuff. I didn't want to order everything at once as I knew I still had measurements to do when I got the screen. My first order consisted of a backing net, a screen, a top net, bungees, and side trim (to cover the bungees at the sides). I also ordered the drape / curtain tracks that Cory recommended.
    Ordering to the UK was expensive for shipping, and then a massive import tax bill when it arrived. I was pretty shocked by the amount of tax / import fees!

    The backing net was attached to the frame using the cable ties supplied. I'm still trying to get the tension right - so may end up changing these to ball bungees too.


    The screen was then hung using the ball bungees - being careful not to let the lovely white screen touch the floor!!


    In the shipment was a roll of double sided velcro. This was attached to the velcro down the sides of the screen. There was also a roll of sticky back velcro in the package, which was cut up and stuck onto the metal frame in the spaces between the bungees / zip ties. The side trim is essentially a big strip of the fluffy type velcro, so it just sticks ontop of the other velcro bits. Its very thick, and can quite easily withstand a ball being fired at it - and would pad it from hitting the frame behind it.
    Last edited by p3eps; 08-02-2016, 09:55 PM.

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    • #3
      Once the screen was in attached, it was time to get the projector in place. With screen now being on a frame, it was further forward - so the projector needed to move. I had an Optoma 760GT, but decided since I've upgraded the quality of the screen I should really upgrade the quality of the projector. After a lot of research, I went with the Benq TH682ST. It offers 1080p at 3000 lumens and is short throw. It also has a small zoom on it - which the Optoma didn't at all. This makes it slightly easier to attach to the ceiling as you can zoom in and out rather than physically moving the projector closer and further from the screen. Although the Optoma technically outputs a higher lumen value, the Benq actually looks brighter in real life. I was very lucky and sold the Optoma on eBay for £50 less than I paid for it!

      It took a bit of time and a couple of laser spirit levels, but eventually I got the projector up in the ideal place.


      I'm projecting at 1600 x 1200, as my screen is much more like a 4x3 rather than 16x9. Even with a 4x3 ratio, I still have a chunk of bare white screen at the top. This was why I didn't order everything from Par2Pro at once - I wanted to measure this area and get "top trim" to cover it. Once I knew the size, I ordered this from Cory, along with a pair of HQ Drapes. They come with velcro edges so that they can attach directly onto my side trim. This means there are no gaps for a ball to sneak through in the event of a duff shot / shank.

      The top trim arrived and was attached in the same way as the side trim. Double sided velcro was attached to the top of the screen, and sticky velcro was attached to the top of the frame. The top trim was then placed onto the velcro. The eagle eyed amongst you may notice that I painted the beam that the screen is attached to, along with the shelving at the side!!

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      • #4
        Very nicely done! I know I jumped the gun a little bit with ordering the size of my screen without realizing how well it would fit with the projector in 4:3 mode. So while I was able to get the whole screen filled, there is still some bleed over into the side curtains (luckily they are black though so I dont really notice it while playing).

        I remember around the time I first got on this forum and reading though the thread on your set up and learning some things and its cool to see the next part of your saga for the perfect set up. Looks fantastic and Im definitely gonna go much slower with my ordering process if I ever upgrade my set up.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Ironstrokes View Post
          Very nicely done! I know I jumped the gun a little bit with ordering the size of my screen without realizing how well it would fit with the projector in 4:3 mode. So while I was able to get the whole screen filled, there is still some bleed over into the side curtains (luckily they are black though so I dont really notice it while playing).

          I remember around the time I first got on this forum and reading though the thread on your set up and learning some things and its cool to see the next part of your saga for the perfect set up. Looks fantastic and Im definitely gonna go much slower with my ordering process if I ever upgrade my set up.
          Thanks! I'm pretty pleased with how it's turning out. Tonight I got my ceiling netting and my side curtains put up. Apart from adjusting the tension of the screen to make sure the ball doesn't fly back at me, and a few other minor tweaks, I think I'm ready to start using it. At that point I'll probably think of other things that need done.
          I'll get a couple of photos of the next stages up in the next few days.

          As for screen size - mine was determined by how much room I have available. As the back wall of the garage has a door into the house, I only have 3.2m width available for the frame. I was originally thinking about a 16:9 screen, but speaking to Cory at Par2Pro, he advised making the screen as tall as possible. The ceiling is 2.85m high - which makes my screen not far off square. My previous setup had the projected image in 16:10, which only really filled about half of the screen. At least setting the projector to 4:3 gives me a much fuller image. I decided to blank off the top of the screen rather than leaving a white empty bit as I thought it would look more finished. I also ended up attaching my ceiling netting to the middle of the top trim.

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          • #6
            Very nice!

            Ive also made the mistake of starting to use mine before I've finished making it aesthetically pleasing and therefore it will probably end up staying how it is as when I'm in there I want to be playing.

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            • #7
              looks great! what's the distance from ball to screen?

              any issue with not having side netting? I have to have setup for 9 year and likely friends...

              any shots hit the ceiling?

              finally, which computer are you using for simulation software? (I went down a rabbit hole of a thread on top end video gaming cards which seems a lot more investment than a iPad ...)

              Thanks!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JROOKS View Post
                looks great! what's the distance from ball to screen?

                any issue with not having side netting? I have to have setup for 9 year and likely friends...

                any shots hit the ceiling
                It's still a work in progress, although I put up my side curtains and ceiling netting on Wednesday.
                They should prevent any stray balls flying!

                My screen is an inch away from being 9' from the tee, and my projector is about the same distance too.
                The PC I use is one I built myself 18 months ago. I think it's specs are detailed in my previous build thread (link at top).
                I might get a new GFX card though, so that I can put the detail level up a bit now that my screen is much clearer.

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                • #9
                  You can see the drape tracks attached to the ceiling in the last photo above. They were sent out undrilled so that I could make holes and attach them to my ceiling joists in the position that I required. Unfortunately they came over from Florida with some minor damage to them. They were slightly dented at the ends, so I had to hacksaw a couple of inches off one end of each piece. Although the tracks are only 2.5m long, they were shipped as 4 pieces, so each track is made up of 2 bits. They came with about 40 hooks, so I slid 20 onto each rail.

                  When the side drapes / curtains turned up, it was just a case of sliding the hooks into their hooks. I only needed about 7 hooks per curtain, so I removed all the excess ones.
                  The Par2Pro HQ Drapes are very high quality, and very heavy. They are weighted at the bottom, and are made up of 2 thick layers to make them solid. The screen edge has full length velcro sewn in, and simply attaches to the velcro on the side trim. I had the drapes made as 2m wide x 2.85m high.


                  Due to the construction of my frame, there is a nice void area for me to be able to "close the curtains" into. When the simulator is not in use, I can tuck them away, and the garage is wide open again with only the frame sticking out 50cm from the wall. Once I get the hinging mechanism for the frame sorted, I'll get some tie backs so that the curtains can be clamped right against the wall.


                  Something else that I did in the weeks waiting for my Par2Pro package to arrive was added a new light. Although the projector seems to work pretty well with my 2 garage lights on, I thought I'd be better with a spotlight on the hitting area. I wired in a recessed spotlight into the ceiling, and quickly realised that I'd put it in the wrong place! I'd put it right above the centre of the hitting mat... which meant that my head cast a shadow right over the ball! I took Cory's advice, and moved it to above the ball, and 3 feet back (in the direction away from the screen), which was perfect.

                  There is now enough light from the spotlight that I can turn the main lights off - which makes the projector look much brighter and sharper. Now that the curtains are up, the lighting is right, and the screen is framed off, it's actually starting to look like a golf simulator!


                  I had another giant beam of timber cut the same as the one that holds the screen frame up, and attached it around 1.5m away from the screen. My ceiling netting is 1.5m deep, and attaches to the velcro on the top trim. It also has lots of brass eyelets, that I screwed into the bit of timber. Once I was happy with the positioning, I removed it and painted the timber white to match the other one. Due to the placement of my ceiling speakers, I had to cut a small wedge out of the timber. If I'd thought about this months ago, I would have ordered the netting at 1.2m deep!
                  I've ordered some brackets to put up the side of the netting, so that I can attach the eyelets to using some bungee cords. Hopefully that'll pull it tighter to give it more spring. Previously it was only balls bouncing up off the screen that hit my ceiling. I generally avoid using my sand / lob wedge indoors!!




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                  • #10
                    With the curtains and everything there it really came all together, and the projection looks amazing in that 3rd picture especially! That is a full on golf simulator you got right there now. All set with it now or you thinking about doing anything else other then the hinge? Doesnt looks like it really needs anything else, tie a bow on it and get golfing! Excellent work again

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                    • #11
                      My next stage was to figure out how to pull my hinged frame up against the ceiling. I have a couple of ceiling mounted bicycle holders which use a hoist system, so I figured something like that would be easiest.
                      Whilst looking for pulleys and hoists, I found a winch. It's designed for pulling boats onto trailers, and was capable of pulling 600kgs. My frame is more like 25kgs, so I thought it would be ample! I also bought some pulleys which are suitable for over 100kgs. I had to get pulleys which were detachable so that I could get the winch cable through them.

                      I had to build up a couple of blocks for mounting the winch on to, so that there was enough space to turn the handle. It was then all attached to the ceiling using some huge screws - straight into the joist. The winch came with a hook on it, but I took this off with a hacksaw, and fitted a "D-shackle" instead. I figured out where the frame would pull up to, and then attached a couple of pulleys to the ceiling into joists too.


                      Thankfully it didn't interfere with the placement of my projector... although it was pretty close!


                      The procedure for clearing the garage takes about 5 mins in total. Because I'm attaching the winch to a piece at the back of the frame, I need to fold about 2 feet of the screen up first. I don't have to do this, but I don't really want the winch cable being pressed against the nice white screen. It only takes a minute to do, so it seems like a sensible thing to do.

                      Step 1: Unhook the curtains from the screens velcro, and close them behind the frame.
                      Step 2: Unhook the side velcro trim from the first 2 feet, and fold it back onto itself.
                      Step 3: Uncouple the first 3 ball bungees at either side, and the bungee thats fitted to the bottom of the screen.
                      Step 4: Fold the white screen up and stick it back onto the velcro.
                      Step 5: Unwind the winch so that it reaches the frame.
                      Step 6: Lift from the bottom of the frame and pull it forward - so that it's not resting on the floor anymore.
                      Step 7: Attach the D-shackle to the bracket on the back of the frame.
                      Step 8: Wind the winch until the frame pulls up against the ceiling.
                      Step 9: Tie back the curtains (future step).
                      Step 10: Remove the hitting mat.



                      Once the frame is up, there is approximately 2.10m of clearance from floor to frame - which is plenty of height to get a large SUV in.



                      With that in place, I think I'm nearly done! I have ordered a couple of shelving brackets (L shaped) to attach between my ceiling and top net. They will attach via bungee cords to pull the ceiling net tight along the sides. Other than that, a bit of a tidy up of some cabling (projector and PC), and maybe some sort of rack for keeping my clubs.
                      I've made a video of the above folding steps, but it'll need some editing, and some speeding up (as I doubt anyone wants to see a 5min video of me folding a screen!).

                      I played my first 9 holes this weekend, and am really happy with it. There might be some minor tweaks required with the tension of the screen - but I'll figure that out as I go.

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                      • #12
                        That is awesome! Really well done. Thought about doing a pulley system like this before when I first started building mine but got lucky and the garage was long enough that I was just able to fit my car in with like a foot or so clearance from hitting the screen. If i didn't have that this would be great to have seen and get an idea how to go about doing the pulley. Great stuff you posted here

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the feedback... I'm really pleased with how it's working out.
                          I'm unlucky in that my wife's car fits in fine, but mine is a few inches too long. I'd also be scared that the car touches the gleaming white screen and leaves a dirty mark on it!
                          I've got my old curtain from my previous setup that I'm going to cut to the size of the screen and attach some velcro to. Then I can use it as a cover!

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                          • #14
                            I've only retracted the screen a few times so far, but each time has been a bit of a pain. It works very well, but it's awkward standing at the top of my 3 step ladder and winding the winch handle.
                            An easy fix would be to get a longer ladder... but I decided to go in a completely different (lazy) direction, and get an electric winch!
                            I bought a small engine hoist rated to 500kg for a decent price. They have to be ceiling mounted to a pole, so I ordered a bit of thicker tube clamp (42.4mm) from The Metal Store, and 3 of the same brackets as I'd used to attach my screen frame to the ceiling.
                            My winch was put up VERY well, and was a proper pain in the backside to get down. Fitting the electric winch was simply a case of hooking it onto the pole. Sounds easy, but it was pretty heavy to hold whilst screwing in on my own! It came with a huge hook on the end, which I hacksawed off and fitted my own D clamp from the previous setup.
                            I put a second pulley above my projector as a backup. I can't see it ever failing, but at least there is a second one to prevent the frame collapsing ontop of the car in the event of a failure!!





                            I still need to work on a permanent home for the controller, as well as the cable management. It's so much easier just standing on the floor and pressing a button though!

                            The other thing I've done in the last few weeks is get a new home for my GC2. I previously had a Peli case (Pelican in USA) and had stuffed some old foam in it. It worked fine, but always ended up falling apart when I took stuff in and out.
                            Through my work, I get a lot of Peli cases custom fitted with foam, so I asked my contact if he could do one for my GC2. I gave him the case away with him, and also the GC2 and accessories, and my iPad mini. He asked if I wanted any specific colours, so I asked for green to give it a golf theme.
                            It was laser scanned for size, and he came up with the following...





                            I'm delighted with the results, and best of all - there was no charge! I took it all with me to the range today - and it worked a treat.

                            My other modifications over the last few weeks is a GTX1070 graphics card, some more RAM, and FSX software!


                            Things still to do:
                            Make a better stand for my GC2 when using the setup. I'd like something with good slots so that it always ends up in the same place.

                            Get some sort of golf club stand rather than taking them in / out of my bag whilst playing.

                            When in Orlando 2 weeks ago, I played 5 rounds of golf and bought the Pin Flags for each course. I'm going to put them up along with others to try and give the garage a "golf theme"!

                            Sort the tension of my screen - as it seems to catapult some shots back at me!

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                            • #15
                              very nice man, love the warn wench install I hope your wife doesn't figure out where the wench went off the land rover.. haha good job though its a great sim build out and you used the space to not impact your garage to much, I said hell with cars coming into my garage and my wife will I am sure get more pissed at me everyday as winter is now here and I guess she melts when you get her wet...

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