DIY Projector Screen Enclosure

[InToOut]

I've had a 15' Starpro green (amazing) and a Monster Tee mat in my unfinished basement for a few years now. Finally back into golf from a long break, and inspired by what I was on this forum I'm going about building a simulator room. I'm cheap, and still learning, so I'm taking it one step at a time. In the last month I've gone from hitting into a 10x10 orange net that I bought from Golfsmith years ago to something close to phase 1 of my simulator setup.

Here's the original setup with the net. I'm an in-to-our swinger and have been known to shank a ball or two, so I did have a makeshift range divider bade of plywood and covered in a shock absorbing gel mat to deaden any errant shots to the right. OptiShot and a 40" screen wasn't cutting it, hence the desire to get to a more comprehensive setup.

[InToOut]

Next step was to add a screen. For cost I went with a 10x9 supertex and used 3/4 metal EMT conduit covered in foam rubber pipe insulation for the top and sides, hung by chains. To add a little more protection and make it more of a 'room' I hung a blackout curtain on the left and stapled economy matt black moving blankets to the ceiling joists and hung them over the top of the screen.

Then I replaced the little Home Depot laptop shelf with a large reclaimed barn board from Woodcraft. That also gave me room to set up the PS4 etc. Then came the projector. After oscillating between the Optoma GT1080 and BenQ I finally chose the Optoma. Couldn't be happier with picture, brightness, or noise levels, so the next step was to find a way to protect it.

[InToOut]

Now for the projector enclosure. I knew I wanted wood as I have the tools and it's easy to work with. I used thin birch plywood and routed it to accept the cover. It is largely glued together, then internal bracing was added for strength. I used forstner and other drill bits to cut various sized air holes in the sides in decorative patterns.

I angled it back so that a skyed ball would hit it and deflect straight down vs. bounce back.

I spray painted it matt black.to make it visually disappear as much as possible.

I had routed a 'window' in the front to accept polycarbonate sheeting as a window for the projector and to protect the front. I had no idea if this would screw up the image or not until I tested it. I also attached mirror clips after painting so that I could install/remove the polycarbonate in seconds just by flicking the tabs.

I then ordered 1/4" neoprene in 40 Shore 00 (like a firmer marshmallow feel) and glued it to the surfaces likely to be hit by an errant ball or club. This protects both users and the enclosure itself, and is also in a nice matt black finish.

Test fitting was the biggest pain. Being short throw, I knew the projector would have to be very close to the front of the box since the lend angles the image down sharply, but I didn't know where exactly to position it in the box until I'd powered it up... but how to you power it up until you've drilled holed in the sides for the power and USB cables? But... how do you know where to drill the holed for the power and the USB cables if you don't know where the projector will be positioned in the box?? That chicken-and-egg was solved with the 'hit and hope' method of hole drilling.

I finally installed it with metal L brackets screwed into the joists. Unbelievably happy with it. Even the wife likes it! I was amazed how the polycarbonate does not affect the projected image. I thought it would be a fail and that I'd have to live with that minimal risk of a bounce-back, but no. Best $30 I've spent in a while...

[Bilbo]

That looks great and similar to what I had planned! I see vents on the enclosure, do they adequately vent the heat or will you end up having to put in exhaust fans. Always wondered since projectors run so hot.

[InToOut]

Thanks, Bilbo. This was meant to be the prototype (I was so lazy I cut the angled sides with a band saw vs. a table saw, which would have been more precise) but I turned out good enough that it'll be a keeper.

I worried about the heat also, and suspected I may be cutting additional vent holes over time. Luckily I left almost all of the top side open, since it's facing the joists. The holes I cut on the side almost end up being intakes for cool air that then draws hot air out of the top. I thought it would get very hot, but it doesn't, and I've kept it running for many hours at a time just to see what happens. I'm glad I made it a little oversized though. I think having a couple of inches of open space either side of the projector before the sides of the box helps.

Having the additional neoprene there definitely helps with peace of mind. I definitely find myself swinging more freely now, which only helps with the practice.

[Bilbo]

Looking at the pictures again I now see on the last one the top is open. This is a great build, well thought out. I definitely will be copying this. Thank you.

[InToOut]

Thanks much, Bilbo - I'm glad it helped someone!

Now I need to get on the train and order SkyTrak. I just ordered a Fiberbuilt Flight Deck for taking to the local range, and as a trial of the Fiberbuilt playing surface before I make my final indoor mat selection.