I have had several people ask if I could design a metal enclosure since Foresight discontinued their "shank tank". I have a preliminary design that I was hoping to get feedback on. To try and minimize the cost, I was thinking about leaving the back open. In my view, the main advantage of covering the back was that you could lock the GC2 inside for retail locations. I don't think it adds any protection from an errant shot, so my thinking is that most home users wouldn't care. It looks like I could sell this design for around $150 + shipping if I get them made in batches of 10. They would be powder coated black. It has slots for the HMT arm as well. Since the plastic shield sells for $200, that seems like a good value to me, but if you guys think that price would be too high I won't move forward with having them made. I would be using a local metal shop that I have done business with in the past rather than outsourcing it overseas, and I don't want to sink a whole bunch of money into inventory by ordering a large quantity, which makes the manufacturing cost a little higher than I was hoping. (ignore the black line on the left top part of the enclosure, that is an artifact of my CAD software)
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Metal GC2 Enclosure
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Hey, really interested in this. Would you consider shipping internationally? Im in Malaysia. I can handle the shipping myself if needed.
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Yes, on the next batch I will do international shipping. If you have an account with someone and want to just send me a label we could do that. Otherwise I usually use fedex for international shipments with the flashes that I sell, and I have had good luck with them. They seem to have the best price for the shipping speed, at least on small packages.
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Got mine - great job Andy - love that you made it so I can take apart - now I can remove the feet and drill a few holes to mount it to my plate that moves my LM back and forth (plate is not as wide as shank tank) so I have a little work to do - I had someone hit my LM with Hy 3 with the plastic shield but since it wasn't bolted down it slide around with no damage hard to believe. But now I can bolt it down with no worries of anything happing to it.
Thanks Paul
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I got mine last night but just opened it up. Looks superb, I’ll figure out how to latch the back closed when I have more time. Great addition having the handle! Hopefully I’ll get to use it tomorrow night.
I’m used the the plastic cover with alignment rod so it’s gonna take getting used to not having a visual alignment stick but that’s just me. I feel much better about having buddies over and not worrying about the unit, I can even take off the hmt if shots are really wayward.
Thanks Andy, I’ll follow up once I get to practice.
cheers!
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Finally got to try the metal enclosure today. At first there was some issues with misreads on the putting but I just need to make some adjustments to the feet and everything works. Even decided to paint it white and it does not effect the shot readings1 Photo
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...........Last edited by andygg1986; 10-04-2020, 01:53 PM. Reason: Sorry phone wasn’t responding when I hit post repeatedly.
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I just got back from a quick golf trip and just tried this out with a wedge with new fiducials and I’m struggling with the hmt readings. I’m getting a lot of one dot readings and then even some dashes on club data. I will try it more this coming week and make sure the height is correct relative to the hitting surface.
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andygg1986 Ok, so I fully charged my GC2, bought new feet for this to get it up to the level of my hitting surface. The GC2 itself is fully against the foam stoppers at the top and appears to be parallel to the case. I tried 50 degree wedge, 7 iron and driver. i notice more one dot readings when doing half swings/slower swing speeds with the wedge, like hitting 30-50 yd shots and it occurs if i hit it fat. Driver and 7 did well, i don't think i had a single dot reading for driver and maybe 1-2 for 7 iron and I think it was fat shots. Also, i noticed at the bottom of the bottom hole for the camera, it looks like the edge is deformed/pushed in. I will try to get a pic later tonight.
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wbond thanks for the update. Regarding the hole for the camera, I think what you are referring to is caused by the bend being close to where the hole is, combined with the thickness of the sheet metal. When they bend it, there just isn't a whole lot of metal for them to grab onto below the camera hole and above the bend so it gets deformed a little. I'm not sure that they can do much about that unfortunately.
If you end up liking the taller feet that you found, can you post a link? There are so many feet options that it was hard to pick one.
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I don't like the ones I found so far, the base is too small, but it works for testing purposes. I got these, except in black and it was under $4. I would prefer to find one in the 3-4" range. https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-20-x...1844/204273727
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Andy, how do you get the back to close again? Do you take the back feet out? I just now got around to testing it and so far no issues with reading anything. I only tried a few clubs and my usual middle placement..
Thanks!
John
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Mahoooner yes they will still have the bars. The angle of the pictures may have not been that great before. They are positioned so you can read all of the numbers off the screen while still being close enough together to keep a ball from hitting it. I will ship these outside of the US but will have to do individual shipping quotes. I’m open to people sending me labels as well if you have an account with a particular shipper. I’m not trying to make money on the shipping but it can be pretty pricey just because of the package’s size
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Are you going to have extra back pieces?
Originally posted by andygg1986 View PostThe next batch of cases are due middle to end of November and will have
a back that can be removed without undoing the screws. I will post when they come in.
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andygg1986, Thanks, i was also thinking to just try and shave it down with a bench grinder, but wasn't sure just how much would have to be removed.
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wbond the easiest way would be to grind the tab off of the bottom but then it wouldn’t latch. The new design takes the metal off of the top, effectively making the bent tabs longer so there is room to lift up. You would probably need to remove roughly a quarter of an inch
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andygg1986 I couldn’t just take some off the too because the sides of the back piece actually but up against the front panel. I had to take some off the bottom and then the bottom tab. Tried bench grinder first then switched to a Dremel with cutoff wheel. Lot of work and not clean but I can now open and close and latch it.
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andygg1986 I would like to get on the list for the next batch if possible. Let me know what I need to do to make that happen. Thanks for the awesome work for the community.
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