Flash Tube Repair

[inorkuo]

i'm still waiting on my replacement transformers to arrive. it's one of 3 possibilities; the xenon tube, the trigger transformer, or the pcb has gone bad. a few people have replaced their xenon tubes with success. mine only lasted a few days and i believe my transformer blew but i won't be sure until i can replace it.

[FaultyClubs]

Ok, so I want to thank you guys for all the work you've done and information you've provided on how to swap out the flash tube on the gc2 flash module. I don't post very often, but I find this site to be invaluable.

I bought a new GC2 here in Canada last year. It came with 2 flash modules, one in the unit and one spare - which I think is standard (revision I even though the CB says revision D). The first one lasted only 3 months. But I think that part of the reason was that the GC2 was hit a few times on bounce back – because the tube was in pieces when I opened up the flash module. I think I've resolved bounce back issue now.

Anyways, I'm on my second flash module now, and so I thought I’d try to follow the instructions here to see if I could get the replacement flash tube assembly (XFTR-1015-2300) to work.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t get it to work. I thought I did a decent job soldering it all together, but alas, the GC2 would not read any shots.

I then discovered that there was a blue plastic film over the flash tube, but even after removing it, it would not work.

If I had to guess at a problem, I would guess that it was the white wire that was causing me the problem. The soldering of the black and red wires to the CB looked really good. But the white wire doesn’t seem to have a nice silver place to solder onto. As you can see from my picture there is lots of red gunk (that is the scientific term J) at the point where the white wire was connected to. Anyone know what that red gunk is? All I did was try to solder the white wire right on top of the red gunk, and I got it to stick ok, but I can imagine the connection wasn’t the best. Thoughts?

If I had to do it again, I think I would leave the 3 wires connected to the flash module, and cut/strip all 3 wires, and then solder the new flash tube assembly wires onto the wires that I just cut/stripped. Would that work? Would that be the better way to go? If I were to do that, could I use some sort of connectors instead of solder to connect the wires from the flash module to the wires on the flash tube assembly? That would make it easier to connect/disconnect each time a tube died. I can imagine the connection might not be as good though. Thoughts?

One difference between the flash tube assembly that was in the flash module, and even the picture from the web site I bought it from, was that the white wire was pointing in the same direction as the red wire, whereas the ones I got have the white wire pointing in the same direction as the black wire. Could this mean that I have the wrong flash tube assembly?
Anyways, thanks again for sharing your expertise. And thanks in advance for any advice you may be able to offer.

Quite a tale soccerdude! I haven't pulled one apart but some initial reactions to your comments.

1) white wire orientation shouldn't matter
2) red gunk probably is some high voltage insulating paint to make people feel better
3) you need to solder your white wire to the hv lead/pad of the trigger coil. Just getting it somehow all goo'ed together isn't good enough
4) make sure you didn't melt the trigger coil connection while messing around.
5) the shattered tube is a typical failure mode, probably nothing to do with impacts
6) you say it doesn't work. ..what does that mean? does it flash?
7) does the gc2 still work with your spare flash (ie does the internal flash driver board still work)?

[soccerdude]

Quite a tale soccerdude! I haven't pulled one apart but some initial reactions to your comments.

1) white wire orientation shouldn't matter
2) red gunk probably is some high voltage insulating paint to make people feel better
3) you need to solder your white wire to the hv lead/pad of the trigger coil. Just getting it somehow all goo'ed together isn't good enough
4) make sure you didn't melt the trigger coil connection while messing around.
5) the shattered tube is a typical failure mode, probably nothing to do with impacts
6) you say it doesn't work. ..what does that mean? does it flash?
7) does the gc2 still work with your spare flash (ie does the internal flash driver board still work)?

Thanks for the reply Faulty Clubs.

Re: 3) you need to solder your white wire to the hv lead/pad of the trigger coil. Just getting it somehow all goo'ed together isn't good enough

Dang, and here I thought that if it didn't fall off, it was good . I was worried about that though. But having said that, what the heck is the 'hv lead/pad of the trigger coil'?

Re: 4) make sure you didn't melt the trigger coil connection while messing around.

Ummm... any way to know if I did?

Re: 6) you say it doesn't work. ..what does that mean? does it flash?

I don't think it's flashing. I don't hear anything, and the gc2 doesn't register any shots.

Re: 7) does the gc2 still work with your spare flash (ie does the internal flash driver board still work)?

Yes thankfully, when I put my spare flash in, I can hear the flash go and the gc2 picks up shots. I was really worried about this after the flash module I was tinkering with didn't work.

Does anyone know if there is any risk of damaging the gc2 by doing something really wrong with the flash module?

[FaultyClubs]

The white wire connects to the high voltage lead of the coil somehow but really the main point is to just make sure the white wire is soldered onto whatever it was before.

You can check the trigger coil connections by visual inspection that they are still connected. Then double check with a multimeter to make sure your getting similar readings that inorku reported earlier. You may still have damaged the coil but at least you can rule out the basics.

I would say yes you can damage the gc2 by doing something wrong. There is several hundred volts in multiple places and even several thousand so connecting things wrong could zap the GC2. Remember it impossible to make something foolproof simply because fools are so ingenious! Lol

[goatbarn]

Ok, I have successfully replaced my flash tube tonight.

I'm exhausted...freaking babies, but I hit a couple quick putts with it and 3 of the 4 registered...dunno what that's about.

It's definitely flashing and recorded all but the softest of my 4 putts.

I took pictures along the way, I'll post up an explanation of the process for fellow noobs (I literally had to Google how to solder) so they also dont have to waste $500 on a super fantastic flash from FS.

I thought about doing a video, but it was my first time doing it, and it actually took me about 1 hr, including prying open the case, which was about 20 mins.

More to come...

[Ironstrokes]

Ok, I have successfully replaced my flash tube tonight.

I'm exhausted...freaking babies, but I hit a couple quick putts with it and 3 of the 4 registered...dunno what that's about.

It's definitely flashing and recorded all but the softest of my 4 putts.

I took pictures along the way, I'll post up an explanation of the process for fellow noobs (I literally had to Google how to solder) so they also dont have to waste $500 on a super fantastic flash from FS.

I thought about doing a video, but it was my first time doing it, and it actually took me about 1 hr, including prying open the case, which was about 20 mins.

More to come...

Awesome! look forward to seeing the pics. Youll have to keep us updated on how long it lasts too. I know I read around about one guy that got his DIY one working as well but it ended up lasting only like 5-6000 flashes i think. Still may be worth it though if its not too hard to do

[goatbarn]

Bought the XFTR-1015-2300 flash tube and reflector, as outlined in the OP of this thread. I received them some 3-3.5 weeks later, as they shipped from some hole in the wall in China or something. I just had a baby, 11 days ago, so I haven't jumped on this immediately, but last night I decided to tackle it.

Ok, so here goes.

Tools:

• Soldering Iron (I bought a cheap 40W iron from Radioshack) and accessories (you'll want a sponge, holder, 60/40 rosin core solder, and maybe some desoldering braid)
• Needle nose pliers
• Something to hold the small PCB (what the silicone/plastic board is called, I guess) in place while you work on it with both hands/soldering iron
• Heat gun (I have a super old, hand-me-down 1250W electric heat gun) that can provide a lower amount of heat, or at least not blast heat out on 1 setting

Steps:

1. Take apart the old flash unit

1. Apply light/moderate heat around area highlighted in red, around all sides, as shown in pic below.

2. Take a razor knife/utility knife and "cut" the bond of heated glue along same red line as shown above.
3. Repeat steps 1-2, over and over, until your knife/blade is able to easily slip between the two pieces of plastic with some ease.
4. Take edge of knife/blade, or needle nose pliers, and separate the case as shown.

5. Take out flash assembly PCB. Set aside flash casing, you'll be reusing it once you've replaced the xenon tube.

2. Remove the old xenon tube and desolder/remove old connections to the PCB.

This part is more or less the same (from what I've seen online) for the various versions or "REV"s out there for flash assemblies. My GC2 serial is in the 1200 range, so a fairly early unit. This flash assembly is of REV D, as you can see from the pic. I've also labeled some key elements, to the best of my understanding, to help you with terminology you may have read about.

1. Strip off "red gunk". This is heat protectant paint, from what I'm told, and needs to be removed in order to desolder existing joints, and resolder new ones. The picture below shows what the same PCB looks like after the "red gunk" is stripped. I used the same knife/blade previously used to open the case. It just scrapes off.

2. Plug in soldering iron, once heated, desolder the joints highlighted below. Google how to do this, I did. I utilized desoldering braid, but there are many ways to properly desolder.

3. Remove existing Xenon flash tube, wires, and reflector. This resembles the replacement that you got in the mail. Set aside.

3. Solder new xenon flash tube/reflector to existing PCB.

This is pretty easy. Google how to solder correctly and follow the advice. I used a sponge, and made sure to my tip was tinned nicely. Again, google is your friend.

1. Place xenon tube/reflector similarly to how the existing was, and replace the flash "lens" (not sure what this is called, but see pic).

2. Solder xenon flash connections/wires to PCB in correct locations. Red wire termination should be soldered at location labeled "ANODE", black wire to location labeled "CATHODE".
3. Solder xenon flash connection to transformer. This was the trickiest part for me. The transformer had a tiny (TINY) wire on it that I placed next to the new flash tubes transformer connection wire, and soldered. See pic below.

4. Clean up board with appropriate cleaner. I hear carbonator cleaner works. I suppose just Google it, again. I did not do this part. Shame on me? I have no idea.
5. Place newly assemble flash assembly back in case, and you're done. See pic.

Some things to note:

• I have (had?) no idea what I'm doing.
• I probably should have trimmed the new wires from the xenon flash to fit better, but I didn't see the need. Next one I'll probably make neater by doing such.
• The overall process should be the same for all versions of flash assemblies, but take a look at yours and compare. Post a pic on here and I'm sure someone will say yes/no/wtf to your questions and you'll be confident to move forward.
• I bought all my soldering supplies the same day, at Radioshack for $22.
• I'm sure I did some things <100% correctly.

That's it. Experts, have at me.

Like I said before, it works, but I need to first change my firmware to the one that counts flashes (3.5?) and then really test it via tournament/regular play with all clubs.

Hope that helps you fellow DIY noobs out there. FYI, I'm a civil engineer and have 0 experience soldering prior to this other than the doorbell (or whatever) I made in 5th grade crafts.

[Stingreye]

AWESOME! Thanks for the detailed instructions. I have a burnt out flash that I might experiment with. Congrats on the new baby!

[soccerdude]

Thanks goatbarn for the awesome pics and instructions. I think what I did wrong was failing to scrape off the gunk so that I could see where to solder the white wire to. What did you find under that gunk on the trig transformer to solder on to? A little pin?

[goatbarn]

Yes, I found what looked like a little pin or wire/lead coming out of the transformer. Granted it was so small, I could barely tell. It just kind of popped out once the joint desoldered.

[Ronsc1985]

Some units have flash lenses some don't. You can leave it off it you want with no ill effects. It is best to shorten the anode and cathode wires simply because leaving them long may create a broadcasting antenna for noise created by the flash tube current when fired. That probably won't create any problems but it's like eating chicken soup for a cold, it can't hurt and may help. The units ship from Israel, which seems to take awhile.

[goatbarn]

Thanks. I was hoping you and Faulty/anyone else that seems like they know something about circuits, would comment.

If that's the only criticism you have, I'm going to proceed to pat myself on the back. I learned soldering, bought the equipment, and soldered the new flash assembly all last night, while being sick and sleep deprived (baby) and I still figured it out. So that's hope for the masses.

I need to really test it out though. I plan on getting on in the garage tonight.

[goatbarn]

OH, I forgot, I wanted to ask you/others a question.

The reflector that came with the new xenon tubes is slightly longer and thinner than that which I found in the original flash.

Because I thought I needed the lens, and the new longer reflector didn't fit within the limits of the lens, I actually re-used the old reflector instead of using the new one that came with the tube replacement. Because of this, the reflector does not extend the full length of the new, longer, xenon tube...does this have any ill effects? Maybe some light pollution within the case?

I couldn't think of any practical negatives, but I know nothing of this stuff.

[goatbarn]

Ok, tested it out thoroughly for a few minutes. Hit drives, chips, putts...everything was registered normally.

Pretty excited. Saved myself $500. Maybe I deserve a new driver...

[Ironstrokes]

Ok, tested it out thoroughly for a few minutes. Hit drives, chips, putts...everything was registered normally.

Pretty excited. Saved myself $500. Maybe I deserve a new driver...

Haha youve earn it on this one. Great instructions and pictures. Am definitely gonna give this a go down the line. Cant wait to hear your long term result and how many flashes you get too. Great work!

[Yrrdead81]

Looks good really appreciate the pictures. Solder joints look clean, no pitting and using a wicking braid (capillary action) is far superior to the crappy vacuum solder removal tools that you get with some cheap kits. In addition using a thick guitar pick to help get electronic cases open is helpful as you won't mar or hurt the plastic.

TLDR tips:
1. Use a copper wicking braid for solder removal like goat did.
2. Use a guitar pick to help open the case

[p3eps]

Great work! I've got 8 of these bulbs at home ready for when my flash stops working! I didn't realise there was so little in there... and thought it must be a couple of bulbs per unit (which is why I bought 8!). Should keep me going for a while.

[goatbarn]

Hah, yeah 8 will probably last you until your GC2 dies for good.

If anyone would like me to repair one of theirs, and doesn't mind if you don't get to it for a week +/-, let me know. Ship it to me, with a spare flash if you have one, and I'll see if I can fix it up and send it back. Maybe a small fee? Not sure.

The annoying parts are working with such tiny constraints and getting the stupid flash case open.

Let me know.

[mthunt]

Nice job. Looks perfect

[Ronsc1985]

OH, I forgot, I wanted to ask you/others a question.

The reflector that came with the new xenon tubes is slightly longer and thinner than that which I found in the original flash.

Because I thought I needed the lens, and the new longer reflector didn't fit within the limits of the lens, I actually re-used the old reflector instead of using the new one that came with the tube replacement. Because of this, the reflector does not extend the full length of the new, longer, xenon tube...does this have any ill effects? Maybe some light pollution within the case?

I couldn't think of any practical negatives, but I know nothing of this stuff.

Probably nothing to worry about. Mine had no lens from the factory and has been going strong since I put it in awhile back and has never missed any shot from driver to putter. . The tube assembly fit almost exactly in the circuit board cutout. I don't have a shot counter so I don't know how many flashes there have been. I really don't care since if it died tomorrow I'd be perfectly happy to just put another flash tube assembly in and spend the five minutes or so it may take. Once the case is apart the rest takes no time at all. I plan on using the same case and board forever. If the transformer ever fails I'll start using one of the backups that are now collecting dust in my garage. .

[goatbarn]

Ok, makes sense. Thanks.

I plan on doing the same. I'm putting on the 3.5 firmware with flash counter, just for the folks out there trying to figure out if it's worth it or not to them.