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Low Ceiling Basement Simulator Build - Brain dump of what I learned

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  • Low Ceiling Basement Simulator Build - Brain dump of what I learned

    Well, my basement simulator has been done for a few weeks. Thanks for all the advice on this site, and especially to Charlie over at Gungho Golf. He answered a bunch of questions that helped a lot. For those people that it may help, here’s a brain dump of my build…

    My Main Challenge: Room Height

    My basement is just 8’3” tall, I’m 6’ tall, and my hitting mat is 1.5" thick. So, I really don't have much to work with. It's so low, I almost didn't do this build. After a lot of experimentation though, I realized I can comfortably swing my irons in this space, and I can hit my woods (not my driver), if I choke up on them.

    Occasionally I find myself not fully following through on my swing, but generally, it works really well. That said, I already have a couple of dings on the dry wall ceiling.

    The long term answer for me is to make some adjustments to the ceiling joists and drywall where I follow through. I think if I just raise a 3x3 foot section of the ceiling by about 6 inches then I'll have plenty of room. That was going to cost a lot of money though, so that will have to wait until another time. In the short term, I'm thinking I'll just remove the section of drywall and replace it with some foam. That way when my follow-through does accidentally touch the ceiling, it won't cause any damage. So far though, even with the dry wall in place, things work pretty well.

    FWIW... I considered lowering the floor as well, but again, decided it was too much money and effort.

    Room Size

    My room is about 13 feet wide and about 16 feet deep. The center of my hitting strip is 10 feet from the screen. Bounce back has not been a problem (see exception below about ricochets.). My projector is mounted on the ceiling and is about 1.5 feet directly above and behind where the ball sits. That location was recommended by Gungho, and it works great. Doesn't come into play or vision at all.

    Enclosure

    I followed the instructions on the Gunghogolf.com web site. These were great. My enclosure is about 8’1” tall, and about 12” wide. I have about one foot on the side of the enclosure to the wall, but only a couple inches above it. Since there is little space for the cloth on the top to stretch, if I hit a lob wedge, I can hit the ceiling, so I put some thin styrofoam sheets and bubble wrap on top of the enclosure to help absorb impact. It still bounces off, but not dangerously.

    My suggested tweaks to the Gungho plan…
    1. I bought about twice as many clips as the recommended to make sure things were fastened down well. My enclosure is a little bigger than normal though (I wanted to make sure shanks didn't bounce around the basement).
    2. I have found that I can get some ricochets when I hit one of the screws on the pipes. You need to find a way to cover these. I use some cloth on the bottom bar that works well, but haven’t figured out a good fix for the top bar, so a rare ricochet is still possible there.
    3. I have found a covering is needed for the left and right edges of the screen to cover up the tarp clips. I have purchased some large black noodles to do this and plan to zip tie them to each post. The are about 3 inches in diameter, so I think that should work.
    Projector

    I got the BenQ TH671ST from Gungho. This was my biggest worry. I spent a lot of time thinking about throw distance (which I had never heard of) and brightness of ambient lighting, but ultimately I worried too much. I used this site (https://www.projectorcentral.com/pro...ulator-pro.cfm) to calculate things and I was worried that my project would be too dim, but I have seen no problems. Even though my projector is positioned a little further back than suggested by the site, the brightness is fine. I even can leave my basement lights on with no issues. I also purchased a projector mount from Gungho. I strongly recommend that. It makes aligning the projector really easy.

    Screen

    I bought the screen material from Gungho. Since my screen size is unusual (about 8’ by 12’) I was worried how the image would fit. That ended up not being a problem. I was able to configure a custom screen size on my PC that matched up perfect. This link from this forum helped a lot with that (Link).

    Hitting surface

    I bought a pre-built mat and hitting strip from Gungho. I bought the five-foot layout and set-it up only for right handers, since my closest friends and I are all right-handed. We were installing new carpeting in our basement, so I had them leave an open space exactly where the mat should go. This saved me the additional height of the carpet and padding. (The hitting surface is about 1/2 inch higher than the carpet, but it's fine.)

    Launch Monitor

    I bought the SkyTrak. Since I plan on only using it inside, it seemed like the best option. So far, I’m pleased with it. It connect to your wireless network so you don’t need to have it connected to anything. You do have to charge it ever so often. I was told when fully charged it lasts 6 Hours.

    There is a set-up utility with Skytrak to get it aligned. Most of the readings seem pretty good, but I tend to slice when I'm on the course, and the Skytrak doesn't show me slicing as much. Not sure why at this point.

    I tend not to use the putting with the simulator. I've used putting at other simulators and never liked the experience, so I haven't even tried that with my set-up. I just configure the software to be a 2 foot putt if I hit the surface and a 1 foot putt if I'm inside of 6 inches from the pin.

    Software

    Initially, I was just going to just use the Skytrak software, but it became clear when I talked to Gungho that the features of that software are limited, so I bought The Golf Course 2019. TGC2019 is pretty good. I think usability could be improved a bit, but overall it’s really nice. Using TGC2019 also requires a $99 annual purchase of the Skytrak software too.

    Computer

    I learned that you don't want to skimp on this if you want a nice experience. Unfortunately, a computer with a faster processor and fast graphics card costs a lot. I lucked out when I found a used computer on Amazon. A new computer would have been close to $2000. I less than half of that. It came with 90 day warranty from Amazon. I also bought a wireless mouse, wireless keyboard and a small mobile table. Having the keyboard nearby on the table works great, since I can interact easily with the software as I play (for example, move the target with the cursor keys). I also bought a monitor with the computer, but other than during computer set-up, I really don’t need it. The projector by itself is fine. The monitor is now in a closet.

    Even with a fast computer and graphics card, expect about a 3 second delay from when you strike the ball until when the simulator projects the ball being hit. After that delay, everything behaves exactly as you would expect. Smooth graphics and appropriate speed. (I noticed when watching YouTube videos of others with simulators, they have the same delay.)

    Prepping physical space

    We were doing a basement renovation, so it was easy to have the construction folks put the power and lighting right where I needed it. Not sure how much work or cost that would have been if I had to make the changes directly to the space myself (e.g. replacing drywall, doing electrical work). I can say that I spent many hours measuring things out so I could give the construction folks clear instructions.

    Costs (not exact)…

    Projector… $750
    Projector Mount... $190

    Computer/keyboard/mouse/table … $1000. (Used computer)
    TGC2019 Software … $900
    Skytrak Software ... $100 (annual)

    Impact Screen... $580
    Black Canvas... $330
    Enclosure Piping and Connectors … ~$200
    Clips, Styrofoam Wrap, Misc ... ~$200
    Hitting Matt .. $400
    Lighting …. $150

    Launch Monitor … $2000
    Launch Monitor Case ... $160

    So total is roughly around $7000.

    When I started, I had hoped for the cost to be closer to $4000. A cheaper launch monitor could have saved $1000. Not having a projector (and just using computer screen) would have saved another $1000. Using the Skytrak software and not TGC2019 would have saved another $1000. Making my own hitting surface could have saved a few hundred bucks. But all of those things make the experience better, so I chose to spend more.

    Is it worth it?

    Time will tell. I can play 18 holes in about 30 minutes if I turn off putting. So I find that 3 or 4 nights a week I sneak down for a quick round. I also hit balls before I head to the course. If I keep using it at this rate, then it’s definitely worth it. If usage drops though, that may not be true. One good sign... I had my friends over today for a round while it was raining. We ordered a pizza and had a great time. They all loved it. They was to use it when I travel.

    I may have forgotten something, but that's most of what I remember. I'll try to check back later in case someone has questions.

    Hope this helps someone as they plan out their sim.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by billw; 05-27-2022, 12:08 AM. Reason: Low Ceiling, Simulator Build, Costs

  • #2
    Nice recap and congrats! I lucked out for once being 5’ 9” tall and having 9’ ceilings in my basement. When I built my house in 2008 for no other reason than my dad said “do the things you can’t change later” from an option perspective, 9’ ceilings and a family room bump out of 4’ were options I selected. Turns out that gave me the height and width to do this last year after stumbling upon golf sims. The space finished with flooring I have 8’ 9”. The extra few inches of ceiling height work perfectly for me as I can swing every club in the bag. However given your height if you are going to raise it you may want to go a full foot. The other option is play different tees and just improve the clubs you can swing in your space. It’s all good fun and the community is great. I am coming up on a year and have already made some improvements from the onset. Enjoy!

    Comment


    • #3
      Your Dad was a smart man.

      You're right, a full foot might be necessary. I'll do some measuring if I ever get to that point.

      Yep, I generally play the front tees, and play mostly irons. Works fine. Had my best round ever at my local course this week, so the extra work may be paying off.

      Comment


      • #4
        Look up gutterfoam. I got it at Home Depot. Come's in 4 foot lengths. Several including me have wrapped this in black fabric and used it to prevent balls hitting EMT. MUCH better than pipe insulation or noodles as it absorbs and since its a triangle it will deflect in different direction. Don't mess around with exposed EMT. Guys have posted on here direct ricochet's hitting them in face. Not good.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by GullLakeMi View Post
          Look up gutterfoam. I got it at Home Depot. Come's in 4 foot lengths. Several including me have wrapped this in black fabric and used it to prevent balls hitting EMT. MUCH better than pipe insulation or noodles as it absorbs and since its a triangle it will deflect in different direction. Don't mess around with exposed EMT. Guys have posted on here direct ricochet's hitting them in face. Not good.
          Did you go with this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/GutterFo...40-S/203318223

          Comment


          • GullLakeMi
            GullLakeMi commented
            Editing a comment
            Yes, that is what I used.

          • Brettster
            Brettster commented
            Editing a comment
            pDubs and billw - I also use a lot of Gutter Foam, bought directly from Home Depot. One of your best foam/blockers to have around when an errant ball comes back at you. At least for a start... I also supplement it with 3" memory foam.

        • #6
          I had similiar height issues and took ceiling joists out if tyou want help answering any questions. I posted it somewhere on here if you can find it.

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          • #7
            Gents, If you have been following my build, it started out in my garage, and I moved it to my basement. I have posted some pics as we have progressed. The trusses come out tomorrow, followed by eight 4 X 4 1/4 steel tubes that will run along each side of the top 2X4 of the joist to support the ceiling above. This is giving me

            Comment


            • Joe M
              Joe M commented
              Editing a comment
              Hi, I have a similar size room. My ceiling height is 8’8” so I took out one of the floor joists that was a engineered joist that was 10.5 inches in height and replaced it with a steel ibeam that is only 3 inches in height. This allowed me to have a tray ceiling of approximately 9’5” height for my backswing. The challenge and limitation is that I can only position the ball placement 7.5 feet from the screen so my backswing goes into the space of the tray ceiling. I went with a short throw projector optoma gt1080hdr. I recently relocated it from above my head to above the striking surface because it was hit by an iron a few times. I’m also in the process of putting a 12x36” neoprene 1/8 inch thick on the ceiling just to the left of where I stand to protect the ceiling from driver dings on steeper follow thru.

          • #8

            Comment


            • #9
              Originally posted by pDubs View Post
              I went with gutter foam as well from my local Menard's. I bought some black denim material from amazon, sewed on Velcro to the denim and wrapped this around the gutter foam. I only needed it on the bottom of the screen and it works great. I've had multiple hits to it with no issues.
              Last edited by Hi Handicaper; 11-21-2022, 05:31 PM.

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              • #10
                I had a similar setup and was able to replace a 11.5 inch deep wood floor joist with a 3 inch steel I beam. I’m a civil engineer so my structural steel manual helped me and I ran calculations for our building inspector. The tray ceiling allowed me to go from 8’8 inch to approximately 9’3 and I can easily swing my driver

                Comment


                • #11
                  Originally posted by Joe M View Post
                  I had a similar setup and was able to replace a 11.5 inch deep wood floor joist with a 3 inch steel I beam.
                  How is the I-Beam inserted or attached to the Joists? My Issue is we have engineered joists so in any case not sure I can do the same thing but very curious. If I could buy another 6-9" that would let me hit Driver ......

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    The I beam rests on the foundation on one side and sits on the main house girder on the other side. It is not attached to anything. It just takes up the same space as the engineered wood I beam it replaced. I hope you understand what I’m saying

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