Now onto my 4th iteration of a simulator setup. I had been looking for a way to go from the 4:3 setup I had to a 16:9 setup and when the sportscreen went on sale, I decided to jump on it. There were also a few issues with my current setup that I wanted to address, mainly access to attic, no left handed players and not fully using the width of my screen. Putting up the sportscreen had a few issues as well as some others I encountered.
-mounting the brackets, it's designed to attach to a flat horizontal or vertical surface. I attached them to a slanted roof and it ended up coming out from my wall more than I would have liked to get the desired height. Lost about 2.5' of depth
-attaching the impact screen, i used industrial strength stick on velcro. It attaches to the tube fine, but it did not attach to the fabric very well at all. Sewing one on would have been way better.
-I couldn't use the full the 16' width due to a door and I didn't want to block it, so i folded over the sportscreen and taped it in place to be 14'6" and this worked well. however, when folding over the impact screen, it wants to push out away from the sportscreen and doesn't stay flat. Still need to figure out a way to minimize this.
-Upon impact, the screen really moves inward since it is not fixed on the sides. I can fix it on one side, but not the other due to the room layout. I would have thought with the weight of the direct from mill screen, it wouldn't move as much. I have to figure out how to overcome this. I'm going to try to and put in a drop in an anchor on the floor and screw in an eyebolt when playing and attach it there. The bottom of the impact screen just brushes the ground and the sportscreen bottom sleeve is fully on the ground. I have not put anything into the sleeve yet but plan on doing the nylon sleeve filled with sand. Hopefully this combination helps.
-Still working on the roller tube protection. i want to make sure a ball can't strike it. I planned on running an elastic cord across the front to hold my ceiling protection below the roller tube, but it didn't work. As soon as I raised the ceiling protection, the cord went right up to the tube. I then had a leftover piece of pvc covered in foam from the supertex screen and ran the elastic cord through it. This allows it to hang below the rollertube, but I'm not fully convinced that it will be the final solution.
-The 16' width of the sportscreen sags a little in the middle. More annoying than anything else, but i really wonder what kind of weight it's rated for. The sportscreen itself is very light.
-For the side trim, there isn't really anything to attach to, so what i did was use a tarp clip and ball bungee with a 2.5lb weight attached to the end that hangs over the top of the tube on the back side. So far it seems to work fairly well.
-For right handed play, i'm offset about 1.5' from the center of the screen. This puts me at about 8' from the wall behind my back and it still feels a little cramped. I may move it over another 6 inches.
-I used the same projector mounting method that i had before, angle iron so the projector can slide fore and aft and side to side. For whatever reason, projector central was quite a bit off on the height of the lens to the ground. Luckily i used slotted angle iron, but i had to take it down and trim some off since it was casting a shadow.
-I use the direct from mill screen and intentionally ordered it wider so i can unroll some if the impact area gets worn. In doing so, it really left wrinkles in the screen where the clips were. Hopefully it goes away in time.
Version one was just a net and I could only swing up to about a 6 iron.
Version two i used half the garage, the width was about 10' by about 14' deep and I was really offset. Cheap projector and was originally hitting into a drop cloth and then the archery netting from west cost netting.
Version three was the 4:3 setup which was about 11'w by 9.5' tall. My image was off the ground a bit on this setup as well.
-mounting the brackets, it's designed to attach to a flat horizontal or vertical surface. I attached them to a slanted roof and it ended up coming out from my wall more than I would have liked to get the desired height. Lost about 2.5' of depth
-attaching the impact screen, i used industrial strength stick on velcro. It attaches to the tube fine, but it did not attach to the fabric very well at all. Sewing one on would have been way better.
-I couldn't use the full the 16' width due to a door and I didn't want to block it, so i folded over the sportscreen and taped it in place to be 14'6" and this worked well. however, when folding over the impact screen, it wants to push out away from the sportscreen and doesn't stay flat. Still need to figure out a way to minimize this.
-Upon impact, the screen really moves inward since it is not fixed on the sides. I can fix it on one side, but not the other due to the room layout. I would have thought with the weight of the direct from mill screen, it wouldn't move as much. I have to figure out how to overcome this. I'm going to try to and put in a drop in an anchor on the floor and screw in an eyebolt when playing and attach it there. The bottom of the impact screen just brushes the ground and the sportscreen bottom sleeve is fully on the ground. I have not put anything into the sleeve yet but plan on doing the nylon sleeve filled with sand. Hopefully this combination helps.
-Still working on the roller tube protection. i want to make sure a ball can't strike it. I planned on running an elastic cord across the front to hold my ceiling protection below the roller tube, but it didn't work. As soon as I raised the ceiling protection, the cord went right up to the tube. I then had a leftover piece of pvc covered in foam from the supertex screen and ran the elastic cord through it. This allows it to hang below the rollertube, but I'm not fully convinced that it will be the final solution.
-The 16' width of the sportscreen sags a little in the middle. More annoying than anything else, but i really wonder what kind of weight it's rated for. The sportscreen itself is very light.
-For the side trim, there isn't really anything to attach to, so what i did was use a tarp clip and ball bungee with a 2.5lb weight attached to the end that hangs over the top of the tube on the back side. So far it seems to work fairly well.
-For right handed play, i'm offset about 1.5' from the center of the screen. This puts me at about 8' from the wall behind my back and it still feels a little cramped. I may move it over another 6 inches.
-I used the same projector mounting method that i had before, angle iron so the projector can slide fore and aft and side to side. For whatever reason, projector central was quite a bit off on the height of the lens to the ground. Luckily i used slotted angle iron, but i had to take it down and trim some off since it was casting a shadow.
-I use the direct from mill screen and intentionally ordered it wider so i can unroll some if the impact area gets worn. In doing so, it really left wrinkles in the screen where the clips were. Hopefully it goes away in time.
Version one was just a net and I could only swing up to about a 6 iron.
Version two i used half the garage, the width was about 10' by about 14' deep and I was really offset. Cheap projector and was originally hitting into a drop cloth and then the archery netting from west cost netting.
Version three was the 4:3 setup which was about 11'w by 9.5' tall. My image was off the ground a bit on this setup as well.
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