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For driver shafts, I really like shafts from Arthur Extreme Engineering. High quality shafts for about $60 at Golfworks. I'm currently gaming the Xcaliber Tour SL. I prefer a light weight shaft and the Tour SL fit my swing very well.
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Last edited by Maverick; 01-05-2015, 07:05 PM. -
Could someone explain shaft with respect to weight in grams and flex and tour pro flex. -
Generally, heavier shafts tend to be stiffer. Tour Pro Flex is a designation that implies that it is a very stiff shaft. What is the actual stiffness? That can be determined by profiling the shaft. Butt stiffness has been the past model for labeling the stiffness of a shaft. In reality, the profile throughout the shaft plus the torque resistance and the hoop strength of the shaft properly identify the shaft's stiffness and how it suits each golfer. The golfer's swings speed, transition, release and strength characteristics plus their sense of feel are tested to determine the best fitting shaft.
And always be aware, that each manufacturer has their own idea what the flex of their shaft shall be called. Any flex can be silk screened onto a shaft. Testing and profiling can compare apples to apples.
Each golfer has unique characteristics, (think of each person has a unique fingerprint), and as such it is unwise to think that I will fit into the same shaft as my buddy just because we have the same handicap or swing speed.
Best regards,
Frank Hann
Engineered GolfComment
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Using my irons, woods, hybrids & driver, my swing produces a slight fade when I'm aligned with target. I like the way I grip, align, set club face to target, etc.... Rather than trying to change my stance, alignment, grip or swing I'd like to tweak my equipment to straighten my flight out or even produce a slight draw. What are the key shaft variables to change to achieve the desired result?Comment
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I do not believe a shaft change can alter your ball flight alone. Changing a shaft usually can only alter your launch characteristics a minimal amount (something like +/- 2* launch, and +/- 500 rpm spin). The easiest way to alter shot shape with the same swing is to alter your setup.
For a draw, move the ball back, drop your trail foot from the target line a couple inches, and hit down on it, all else the same. The opposite would be true to hit a fade.
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Goat is correct. A shaft will mainly change launch and spin. It is possible however to alter dispersion a tad with shaft selection. If you're looking to go straighter or to a draw, try a lighter weighted shaft along with one with a more active or softer tip in your woods and hybrid. That MAY straighten it out some. Not sure if your irons are steel shafted, but graphite shafts might help a little as well. Ultimately, swing mechanics is the only sure fire way to change your shot shape. A lighter shaft is basically changing your swing and how you are releasing the club anyway. I would find a good fitter in your area and see if any change occurs with various shafts.Originally posted by SirNeedaSim View Post
My advice however? Aim a few yards left and embrace that baby cut. I'd personally much rather be hitting a small cut in my game and take the left side of the course out of play. With your current swing, the fade is always going to be a possibility. If you try and add a draw in to the equation, you're opening up both sides of the hole for your miss. The best players play knowing they will only miss in one direction. Makes avoiding trouble much easier. A fade isn't the sexiest shot because it's typically not as long, but it's much easier to control. Just my 2 cents.Comment
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I appreciate the feedback. I do understand swing mechanics. I also know about adjusting stance open and close as well altering grip by strengthening and weakening to change flight characteristics. I also know I have an out to in swing that produces the baby cut.
I've also noticed if I close the club face a little I can produce a straighter flight and even a baby draw with my slight out to in swing. However, when I address the ball, I don't like trying to manage the degree my club face is out of alignment with respect to being perpendicular to the target line to produce the desired straight to slight draw flight. My aim is to try to tweak equipment to fix alignment and achieve desired flight.
My goal is place my feet parallel to my aim line and be able square my club face to the aim line and achieve a baby draw with driver 1st. I have a slow swing speed, 91 to 94 with a 48" driver. I hit the beast consistently 225 to 235 yards. On occasions I roll out to 245/247. I'm usually in fairway, first cut or those dam strategically placed fairway bunkers...lol. Dispersion isn't a concern. Driver shaft is an uncut Miyazaki 6R flex code 4432 with a 9 degree adjustable Cleveland Classic XL Custom head. I want to achieve a consistent baby draw to pick up some yardage off the tee.
Based on the above equipment, what shaft code would you recommend I try using to get my club more closed at impact when I set it up square to the aim line? Do I need more or less shaft torque? I think more but is that correct? If so, in what increments should I make adjustments? Are there other shaft variables I can play with to get a more closed club face at impact. If I can gain success with driver, I'm sure I can with woods and hybrids too.
As for my irons they are steel Tru Temper XP 95 shafts with Ping G30 heads. I know there is some real opportunity here for graphite regular flex shafts but I'm clueless at this point where to start with respect to flex codes. I can tell you I have a fast tempo backswing and the faster I try to swing the more open my club is at impact. Slowing my backswing tempo does indeed help achieve straighter flight and that is a change I'm working on engraining. I'm sure my swing has many flaws but it is my natural swing. Furthermore, it's much harder to correct those flaws. Hence, my interest is in seeking equipment insight and guidance to help make up for and mask my flaws. If you can help with that I'll invest and tinker to gain improvement.Comment
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I had xp105's in stiff. In a trackman fitting we found I was twisting the head open from the force of the downswing transition. I ended up with tour stiff x100's and no longer have the issue.
I would recommend testing out a tt S300 shaft as a solid starting point.Comment
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AXE makes awesome shafts. I have gamed the Tour SL in the past in a driver and fairways, and currently game the 85 gram iron shafts in my RBladez.. I'm thinking of trying the newer AXE Pro model in some woods, and maybe some of the Golfworks only Paderson iron shafts in a set of Forged Tec Cobras.Originally posted by Vance View PostComment
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This thread could go on forever. Shaft adjustments can be very technical. I actually live very close to Golfworks main headquarters and work with them often. I would suggest documenting you swing numbers and contacting Golfworks by phone. The best guy to speak with is Pete Callaway at Golfworks. He knows shafts as well as anyone in the industry. If you tell him which shaft you are currently gaming and your numbers he can tell you what adjustments to make. It may be as simple as tip cutting or as complex as a total shaft change.Comment
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Launch angle, ball speed, back spin, side spin, AOA, club head speed. They can make some shaft recommendations from those numbers using the profile of your current shaft. When looking at flex and backspin I would error toward a softer flex with a bit higher spin. Doing this enables you to adjust by tip trimming. You can't adjust from too stiff and too little spin. Without a live custom fitting, this is about the best you can do. Have fun and good luck!Originally posted by Jeff Tilley View PostComment
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