Tweet
So I have been using a combination of various diy mat types and setups and figured I would rebuild a stance platform and hitting area to accommodate all the various options. I friend of mine who got rid of his sim gave me his mat combination. The problem was, it was an odd size to use with the skytrak. It was 3 x 5 and worked well with his GC2 since it had a larger FOV. With the skytrak having a smaller area it was difficult going from Driver to Wedge and hitting from the same spot.
Anyway, I wanted an area that I could hit all clubs without having an issue with my stance, a hitting section that could switch easily between all options and have them joined together so it wouldn't move around.
As to the options, it needed to be able to work with DIY Divot Action, DIY Truestrike, DIY Magstrike and the CCE mat.
The hitting mat used for the Divot Action, Truestrike and Magstrike appears to be a premium residential mat at 1-1/8"H, with a 5/8"base and 1/2" pile height.
My stance platform is 2" high, with 2x4's layed on their side with 1/2" plywood and I hit all shots from about 20" from the front edge of the platform. The hitting section is 12" x 48" and has a 1/4" base.
The DIY Divot Action used a piece of 3/16" Lexan that I got from a local supplier cut to 12" x 18". It has a 1/2" H x 1.5" wide strips at each end giving the Lexan 15" of flex and allows it to flex 1/2" down. The lexan from HD is only 3/32" and actually sags in the middle at this length. The 1/4" seemed to rigid, so far the 3/16" seems perfect. It stays straight and flexes enough in the swing. In the front and back of the divot action is a piece of 5/8" plywood.
The DIY Truestrike uses the 5/8" Gel cut to 12' x 18" and it sits in the same spot as the Divot Action. Same with the divot action, in front and back of the Gel are 5/8" plywood and the mat sits directly on top of them.
The DIY Magstrike. The idea is the mat sits on a cushion of air by placing magnets facing each other with the same polarity so they oppose each other. I used rare earth ceramic magnets that were 1-1/4" diameter. These are placed into the base of the hitting station and the base of the hitting mat. In order to do this, I had to get a 1-3/8" Forstner bit. The magnets would not fit into the opening using a 1-1/4" Forstner bit. Probably because the magnets were not true 1-1/4" diameter. I didn't measure them. Anyway, this gives you a flat base to put the magnets and keep them in place. I wanted the turf to be able to be turned around if any wear starts to show, so in order to do that, you need to make sure your magnet pattern on the base and the mat is symmetrical. With these magnets, it works well, but it's a little too easy to flex. If you set your clubhead down and push with any force, it will flex. So i am now waiting on Neodymium magnets since they are much stronger. I have 1/2" H x 7" W strips at the front and rear of the hitting base. This allows for a 1/2" air gap for the mat to flex. Getting the right magnet combination is key, so it's still a work in progress.
Then the CCE just sits in the hitting strip.
Out of these, the Magstrike is far and away the easiest on the joints. You literally hit off a cushion of air. I suggest going to their site to read about it. Not sure where you can actually purchase theirs as they appear to be based out of Europe. Next would probably be a toss up between the Divot Action and the Truestrike. CCE being the harshest on the joints.
Now that it's complete, the next step will be doing some testing to see how they affect spin and launch.
From L to R,
CCE hitting strip
Base for the DIY Divot Action/Truestrike (Gel sits in the same place as the lexan)
Mat for for DA/TS
Mat for Magstrike(1/2"H x 7"W plywood on top, they are actually underneath when put into the base)
Base for Hitting Strip (you can see the magnet pattern)
Stance Platform (this attaches to the Hitting strip via gate hooks)
Closeup of the Base with magnets
Closeup of hitting mat with magnets
This shows the Divot Action and the mat that would go directly on top. The Gel sits in same location as the Lexan here.
Anyway, I wanted an area that I could hit all clubs without having an issue with my stance, a hitting section that could switch easily between all options and have them joined together so it wouldn't move around.
As to the options, it needed to be able to work with DIY Divot Action, DIY Truestrike, DIY Magstrike and the CCE mat.
The hitting mat used for the Divot Action, Truestrike and Magstrike appears to be a premium residential mat at 1-1/8"H, with a 5/8"base and 1/2" pile height.
My stance platform is 2" high, with 2x4's layed on their side with 1/2" plywood and I hit all shots from about 20" from the front edge of the platform. The hitting section is 12" x 48" and has a 1/4" base.
The DIY Divot Action used a piece of 3/16" Lexan that I got from a local supplier cut to 12" x 18". It has a 1/2" H x 1.5" wide strips at each end giving the Lexan 15" of flex and allows it to flex 1/2" down. The lexan from HD is only 3/32" and actually sags in the middle at this length. The 1/4" seemed to rigid, so far the 3/16" seems perfect. It stays straight and flexes enough in the swing. In the front and back of the divot action is a piece of 5/8" plywood.
The DIY Truestrike uses the 5/8" Gel cut to 12' x 18" and it sits in the same spot as the Divot Action. Same with the divot action, in front and back of the Gel are 5/8" plywood and the mat sits directly on top of them.
The DIY Magstrike. The idea is the mat sits on a cushion of air by placing magnets facing each other with the same polarity so they oppose each other. I used rare earth ceramic magnets that were 1-1/4" diameter. These are placed into the base of the hitting station and the base of the hitting mat. In order to do this, I had to get a 1-3/8" Forstner bit. The magnets would not fit into the opening using a 1-1/4" Forstner bit. Probably because the magnets were not true 1-1/4" diameter. I didn't measure them. Anyway, this gives you a flat base to put the magnets and keep them in place. I wanted the turf to be able to be turned around if any wear starts to show, so in order to do that, you need to make sure your magnet pattern on the base and the mat is symmetrical. With these magnets, it works well, but it's a little too easy to flex. If you set your clubhead down and push with any force, it will flex. So i am now waiting on Neodymium magnets since they are much stronger. I have 1/2" H x 7" W strips at the front and rear of the hitting base. This allows for a 1/2" air gap for the mat to flex. Getting the right magnet combination is key, so it's still a work in progress.
Then the CCE just sits in the hitting strip.
Out of these, the Magstrike is far and away the easiest on the joints. You literally hit off a cushion of air. I suggest going to their site to read about it. Not sure where you can actually purchase theirs as they appear to be based out of Europe. Next would probably be a toss up between the Divot Action and the Truestrike. CCE being the harshest on the joints.
Now that it's complete, the next step will be doing some testing to see how they affect spin and launch.
From L to R,
CCE hitting strip
Base for the DIY Divot Action/Truestrike (Gel sits in the same place as the lexan)
Mat for for DA/TS
Mat for Magstrike(1/2"H x 7"W plywood on top, they are actually underneath when put into the base)
Base for Hitting Strip (you can see the magnet pattern)
Stance Platform (this attaches to the Hitting strip via gate hooks)
Closeup of the Base with magnets
Closeup of hitting mat with magnets
This shows the Divot Action and the mat that would go directly on top. The Gel sits in same location as the Lexan here.
Comment