Lighting for impact swing camera high fps

[pathfindr]

No, I'm using Swing optix cameras. But I have also tested a 100fps camera. As long as you keep the shutter speed high (low exposure time) with sufficient light, you should be able to get video without any motion blur.

[rob.burge]

Hi, do you have any blur on you dtl camera with your current set up on the downswing? Thanks for sharing.

[pathfindr]

Since someone DM me and asked about my current light layout, so I thought I would post it here as well. FWIW My current light layout with 6 lights. I added a second track and use two adapters and a home made power cord to provide power to the 2nd track. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071C7652

[pathfindr]

Irons are shorter than a driver and should be even less an issue. You can always move the track to the other side, assuming you don't have lefties. It's not difficult to move the track, especially if you use the adapter/cord kit. You can also move the lights along the track if any of the lights are in the way.

[cdepps]

Thank-you for the quick reply. Full disclosure I recently had rotator cuff surgery and unfortunately can't swing a club. It appears you basically followed Ron @ GungHo's recommendation but with only one track. I understand about the driver not hitting the fixtures. Since I can't swing a club right now to test out, I'm having trouble envisioning if an iron could hit the fixtures. In your opinion do you think there is any chance? I'm 5'11" but do have some tall players i.e. 6'4".. Just curious as to what you might think. Much appreciated!

[pathfindr]

My track is about 40 inches left of the driver tee. The lights are directly above my head. I have a 10ft ceiling and fixture is about 10 inches from the ceiling. Unless you are very tall and have a very vertical driver swing, I'm 5 ft 10 and have not had any issue with the driver hitting the lights. I don't have any issues with shadows affecting putting. Best way is to test the different locations and see what works best for you setup. There is an adapter/cord kit that you can buy that allows you to power the track and move the track more easily. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PIKORA It's basically a 15-ft long power cord that you can connect to the end of the track and the other end can be plugged into any outlet.

[cdepps]

pathfinder - I'm new to the GSF and am hoping you can provide some feedback. I have an EXO with Swing Optic cameras (not installed yet). I wanted to address overhead lighting for my hitting area. A problem I may have is my 9'4" ceiling height. I saw the Gungho Instructional Article using two rows of track lighting perpendicular to the screen. That setup provides for fixtures hanging ~10" below the ceiling. My concern is backswing and followthrough hitting the fixtures. Then I thought about one track directly above the hitting area but read about shadows while putting, misreads for EYE XO due to reflections. Then I saw your setup above and was hoping for your feedback. I see the track is not directly over the hitting area. How far to the left of the hitting area do you have the track? How low do your fixtures hang? Any concerns about hitting the fixtures? Shadows, etc.? BTW I plan on using the bulbs Ron from Gungho recommended. Thank-you!

[Throttle]

Much appreciated pathfindr!

[pathfindr]

Someone asked me about my lighting setup. So I thought I would post some info here.

I basically followed Gungho Golf's recommended setup https://gunghogolf.com/articles/indo...video-lighting posted from Ron. For the light, I use 1 8-ft track from Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Li...ack/1000400947 directly above my head perpendicular to the screen (See photo). I have 6 lights. I was also considering lights facing the golfer but didn't end up needing them. I didn't want to have light directly in my face. I also use EV foam sheet as light snoot to block off the light. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084P8P8QR I use a binder clip to secure the foam to the light. See photo. For the dimmer, I found an older style dimmer that actually works without flickering. It's not designed for LED but it actually works better than those dimmers designed for LED. The model number Leviton Almond Decora Illuminated Slide Dimmer Switch Preset 3-Way 600W 6633-PLA. I got them on ebay. The listing is no longer there but I think this is similar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234612712862

[EG$]

pathfindr - That was actually the dimmer I had in the space to control the standard bulbs prior to adding the Hykolity lights, and you're right, its no good for anything on a commercial level. It worked fine for strictly On/Off, but was unusable for dimming in any capacity. The Hykolity lights and most commercial grade LED drivers require 0-10V dimmers which are very difficult if not impossible to find in the big box hardware stores. I don't think they stock them normally.

Lutron does make a solid solution and I ended up going with that and it works great. It doesn't dim the lights enough to prevent washout but I was after enough light to capture video. I turn off these lights when using the projector.

This is the part list I used for dimming:
Pow Pak Dimming Module : RMJ-5T-DV-B
Pico Wireless Remote: PJ2-2BRL-GWH-L01
Wall Plate Adapter: PICO-WBX-ADAPT

My setup is working flawlessly. No flickering, and now no blur after finding the right shutter configuration on the camera.

[pathfindr]

Hi Ron,
GungHoGolf Any chance you can find out the brand or model of dimmer switch you use? I tried a Lutron LED+ Toggler dimmer switch but was getting flickering. Thanks

[pathfindr]

Just an FYI - Avoid Lutron Toggler dimmer switch. Using a on/off switch with Satco LED, I'm not getting any flickering. When I used a Lutron Toggler dimmer switch, I was getting flickering. This is the Lutron switch https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-T...H-WH/202746671

[EG$]

pathfindr I ended up doing 2 of the 155W Hykolity lights. 40000+ lumens (2 x 20000+) is very very bright. Doubling that like your setup would be like the sun, and I can't imagine how bright that actually is. I don't get any flickering at 240FPS which is what I was looking for. I did add a 0-10V dimmer as well which is nice when you don't want to be in high speed video capture (or x-ray machine, lol) mode. I need to do some testing with my Casio camera that allows me to manually change the shutter speed so I can find the right combination of settings to remove the club blur indoors. I'm confident it'll do the job. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how you positioned the light shields to prevent wash out.

Thank you for the follow-up stunted !

[stunted]

stunted Did you ever get a chance to test those 2 bulbs? I have a garage setup and I’m not concerned about washing out the projector. All I really need is enough light to record in 240fps (without flicker preferably) when it’s too cold to go outside. I have an old Casio that I use when I go outside and my phone will also record in 240, but both require way more light than what I have currently. Just trying to find something plug and play if that even exists.

yea I have the 2nd link, and you just screw it right into any light socket. it is incredibly bright. it's 75% as bright as pathfindr's link as reference, so it'll work well.

[pathfindr]

I'm in the process of building a new setup inside the house and don't have the garage setup anymore. For my garage setup, I have an oversized 26 x 24 garage with a 10 ft ceiling height but the hitting zone is about 12 x 18 ft. (I have a 10 ft wide Sportscreen with side curtains on Ikea tracks). The lights are directly above me and the hitting area. The lights come with metal hanging chain and brackets. I use heavy duty velcro hanging straps (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-24...9-TH/312387462 ) to hang the lights to garage rafters directly so that I can move and adjust the position of lights easily. Take a look at this old video which shows the lights above the hitting area. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDazmplL2YY
I was using black plastic roof vents to prevent the lights from washing out the projector image.