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Protee Lighting Simplified

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  • Protee Lighting Simplified

    As a newbie on here there is a lot of overwhelming information on which lighting to use with the Protee sensor mat. After trying around 10 different combinations of halogens, that were available at my local hardware store (as recommended by other forum users) with many different configurations nothing seemed to work properly.

    So, what ended up working the best? Simple answer, follow Protee's recommendations. I got everything from Amazon in 2 days. See the links below. You will need to take the bulbs and transformers out of the cans where you will put the Protee Bulbs into. If you need any help with that let me know, it's quite simple.

    A huge shout out to Jamie PROTEE UK for his excellent customer service, and patience with me even though I didn't take their advice the first time.

    I got to play around on it last night for the first time successfully and this Protee sensor mat is spot-on and accurately humbling.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LL...b_b_asin_title


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G...b_b_asin_title

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0090...b_b_asin_title

    Please note, you will want the lights to look like a figure 8 without overlapping. This pic shows a slight overlap which can create a shadow. Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot_20200113-161300.png Views:	0 Size:	895.6 KB ID:	238048

    Also, very important, you want the light over the mat centered directly over the center of the mat (not the tee location) and pointing straight down.

    When all else fails, or if you get stuck on anything, don't try to do it yourself...let me say that again..do NOT waste your time just to mess things up. Contact Jamie PROTEE UK or ProTee United Their customer support is off the charts and they are all enthusiastic, sincere, and helpful. Also, they have the most accurate knowledge out there on their amazing Protee sensor mats.
    Last edited by DejaVu; 01-13-2020, 10:25 PM.

  • #31
    In my first booth the light above the protee sensor mat from the stance mat to the diffuser the height measurement is 122". The light in front of the putting protee sensor is 120".
    I have a slightly slanted roof so they are just mounted to the trusses using standard electrical octagon boxes, no cans.

    From the back protee halogen lights led is 26" to centre and the front led to the front protee halogen is 48"

    Both booths are pretty close measurements for the secondary led light.

    Obviously, I cannot guarantee that it will work in your setup or anyone else's. As stated earlier when I first built my sim booths when those secondary lights were on there were many misreads. Could have been many factors that caused it not to work.

    I am not sure why all of a sudden one day the systems decided that it didn't matter that the secondary lighting was on. My first few seasons of operation my customers played in the dark very little light was on other than the halogens.

    Comment


    • #32
      Rich TeeDeck ,

      Originally posted by TeeDeck View Post
      In my first booth the light above the protee sensor mat from the stance mat to the diffuser the height measurement is 122". The light in front of the putting protee sensor is 120".I have a slightly slanted roof so they are just mounted to the trusses using standard electrical octagon boxes, no cans.
      Perfect 10' to 10'2" height to the bulb.

      Originally posted by TeeDeck View Post
      From the back protee halogen lights led is 26" to centre and the front led to the front protee halogen is 48"
      So FROM BACK it is:

      BACK LED(Secondary Light) -- 26"--- BACK PROTEE HALOGEN (Spot light) --- FRONT PROTEE HALOGEN (Spot Light) ---48"--FRONT LED(Secondary Light)

      AND, are the Secondary Lights directly in line with the PROTEE Halogen Spots (front to back)? I think you said they were all mounted to trusses, but I don't know if your trusses run front->back, or side->side.

      Originally posted by TeeDeck View Post
      Obviously, I cannot guarantee that it will work in your setup or anyone else's. As stated earlier when I first built my sim booths when those secondary lights were on there were many misreads. Could have been many factors that caused it not to work.

      I am not sure why all of a sudden one day the systems decided that it didn't matter that the secondary lighting was on. My first few seasons of operation my customers played in the dark very little light was on other than the halogens.
      I'm not expecting you to guarantee it - I'm just looking for a Secondary Lighting Idea I can try, to see if it works and go from there.When I have only ProTee Halogen Spots on, it's pretty dark in rest of the space and I only have 16'x12' of space. So, I'm hoping that if I can light back behind the ProTee Hitting Spot, I have 6' to back wall, and currently have lighting there at about 5', just above where the hitting mat is positioned (ProTee hitting mat, but not setup/configured to run ProTee yet, I will soon).

      Sometimes I run the Halogen Spots for ADDITIONAL light in the space, directly over the hitting area, and the Putting mat (up front). But, I would prefer if I had Secondary Lighting LEDs that could stay on all the time when ProTee system is being run to provide additional light - like you have done... That environment (ProTee spots) without the additional lighting - is quite dark.

      Thank you,
      -Brett

      Comment


      • TeeDeck
        TeeDeck commented
        Editing a comment
        In both booths the roof trusses run parallel to the screen. The secondary lighting is as close to inline as I could get them (some X bracing conflicts a little). My booths are both approx 12' 6" wide and a total depth of 20'. The tee spot on the Protee mat is close to 11' to the screen in both booths also.

      • Brettster
        Brettster commented
        Editing a comment
        I got it TeeDeck - thank you for final measurements... you've got quite a lot more room there with 20' depth, I have 15'4". Also, I'm looking at making custom Snoots that should do the job just fine... from what I can tell.
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