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  • Protee Lighting Simplified

    As a newbie on here there is a lot of overwhelming information on which lighting to use with the Protee sensor mat. After trying around 10 different combinations of halogens, that were available at my local hardware store (as recommended by other forum users) with many different configurations nothing seemed to work properly.

    So, what ended up working the best? Simple answer, follow Protee's recommendations. I got everything from Amazon in 2 days. See the links below. You will need to take the bulbs and transformers out of the cans where you will put the Protee Bulbs into. If you need any help with that let me know, it's quite simple.

    A huge shout out to Jamie PROTEE UK for his excellent customer service, and patience with me even though I didn't take their advice the first time.

    I got to play around on it last night for the first time successfully and this Protee sensor mat is spot-on and accurately humbling.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LL...b_b_asin_title


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G...b_b_asin_title

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0090...b_b_asin_title

    Please note, you will want the lights to look like a figure 8 without overlapping. This pic shows a slight overlap which can create a shadow. Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot_20200113-161300.png Views:	0 Size:	895.6 KB ID:	238048

    Also, very important, you want the light over the mat centered directly over the center of the mat (not the tee location) and pointing straight down.

    When all else fails, or if you get stuck on anything, don't try to do it yourself...let me say that again..do NOT waste your time just to mess things up. Contact Jamie PROTEE UK or ProTee United Their customer support is off the charts and they are all enthusiastic, sincere, and helpful. Also, they have the most accurate knowledge out there on their amazing Protee sensor mats.
    Last edited by DejaVu; 01-13-2020, 10:25 PM.

  • #16
    Bump ... to DejaVu :

    --
    Can you please take a photo of your setup - and how bright/dim it is when you are playing on you ProTee?
    --

    I'm in the final stages of setup... and would like to see how it may be possible to have other lighting in the Sim area.

    Thank you,
    -Brett

    Comment


    • #17
      In the photo of your setup it appears the lighting overlaps. Is that real or an artifact of the photo? My understanding is the lighting distribution should not overlap. That the lighting distribution not overlap is in the Protee video of the lighting setup.

      Comment


      • Brettster
        Brettster commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you Stonebattle. I will find out this weekend, when I finish cutting the holes and embedding the sensors. I cut the holes in the turf, now I'm having a heck of time cutting into the 3/4" plywood underlayment. I've tried Rotary Cutter and Oscillating Multi-Tool, both produce a ton of dust. I think I'm going to go with a jigsaw next... the problem I am having is that I don't want to pull back the turf to make the cut, as it's already taped down on all edges - so I'm trying to do it by cutting inside the hole of the turf, without peeling back the turf. I have about 1" from top of turf to plywood, and then I'll need 3/4" cut through the plywood to get the board out in one piece.

        Harder than I thought - do you remember how you did it?

      • Stonebattle
        Stonebattle commented
        Editing a comment
        I used a cross cut hand saw. Not easy, but not that bad.

      • Brettster
        Brettster commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks Stonebattle - I finally got through, I started the cut with a plunge cut from a Rotary Cutter, and then ran my jigsaw along the cut line. I had to pull back all the turf though ;( Cost me hours - that's for sure... spent 7 hours on it today, cutting, and then cutting/filling in the holes with just the right depth to make sure the sensors sit just above turf level.

        I found some other issues too - my puzzle piece/foam (1/2" mats) were on the edges of my sensors and holding me up, so I cut those back about 1"-2" inside the turf. Even that did not stop the turf from curling up, all around the edges I cut! Now, I'm looking at Velcro Tape, or double-sided carpet tape to hold the turf down around my sensors.... once again, a basic job turns into something quite tedious and time-consuming.

    • #18
      How do you actually connect the lights to the transformer? I set mine up like 9 years ago and moved and now setting it up again. The single wire from the transformer was coupled to a single wire. Now my light has 3 wires. I don't remember how I previously wired it. Appreciate any help.

      Comment


      • Brettster
        Brettster commented
        Editing a comment
        mjbgolf - I had the same problem when I originally hooked mine up. They are still hooked up so I went out and looked. It looks like I connected the 1 red wire (from light) to 1 red wire (transformer out), and 1 blue/brown wire (from light) to the other 1 red wire (transformer out), the yellow wire is not attached.

        So like this:
        TRANSFORMER/OUT LIGHT
        1 red ------------------------- 1 red
        1 red -------------------------- 1 blue/brown
        not connected/capped 1 yellow

        The red & blue wire from the light, I believe can be connected to either of the 1 red wires (transformer out). I'll take a picture next time I'm out in my Sim, but I think this shouuld give you the information you want. Sorry for the delay in responding.

    • #19
      I'm not familiar with those colors for low voltage wiring. My lamps only have two wires. I might suggest you find out which wires are connected to the lamp and use those two to connect to the transformer. You can use a 9 volt battery. That should light the lamp, but at a very low level. With the battery and a low voltage lamp you can find out if the other wire goes to the lamp metal fixture for perhaps a ground connection.

      Comment


      • #20
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        Comment


        • #21
          I just bought the can in the Amazon link. It came with a power cord and plug. I don't understand how you connect this to the transformer and there don't seem to be any instructions anywhere. Any help is appreciated.

          Comment


          • #22
            mjbgolf - I had the same problem when I originally hooked mine up. They are still hooked up so I went out and looked. It looks like I connected the 1 red wire (from light) to 1 red wire (transformer out), and 1 blue/brown wire (from light) to the other 1 red wire (transformer out), the yellow wire is not attached.

            So like this:
            TRANSFORMER/OUT LIGHT
            1 red ------------------------------ 1 red
            1 red ------------------------------ 1 blue/brown
            not connected/capped 1 yellow

            The red & blue wire from the light, I believe can be connected to either of the 1 red wires (transformer out). I'll take a picture next time I'm out in my Sim, but I think this shouuld give you the information you want.

            Since it is low voltage out from transformer, you should run into any problems.

            Good luck, let us know that you're wired up

            Thanks,
            -Brett

            Comment


            • mjbgolf
              mjbgolf commented
              Editing a comment
              Well... my light doesn't have a red wire. It has a blue, brown, and yellow. So do I hook the light blue wire to one of the red transformer wires and then hook the light brown wire to the other red transformer wire?

            • mjbgolf
              mjbgolf commented
              Editing a comment
              Figured it out. Blue lines connected to one red transformer wire and the brown ones connected to the other. Thanks for help.

            • Brettster
              Brettster commented
              Editing a comment
              Good to hear mjbgolf. Yes, as long as you leave the Yellow wire unconnected you're fine. There's really no 'wrong way' to connect the other too and it does not matter what color they are, just as long as they are NOT yellow. I know, quite a mess, really - I guess they figure with low voltage they lighting company is not too worried about it, but I sure wish they would say something about connecting in the manual that came with them.

              Glad you figured it out.

          • #23
            This is my setup. I actually have two identical booths. When I originally set it up and tried to keep the secondary lights on the system had a lot of misreads. Then the last couple of years the system has been working just fine with the secondary lights. The only change was updating the interface so I am not sure why it works so well with the extra lights on, but it does.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #24
              Wow TeeDeck - that's a lot of light - that is not the standard ProTee Halogen bulbs. Can you tell us and link us to the other lights (transformers/or direct wiring) that you have running there? You leave those on all the time while playing? That's something like what I want to do, but my lights will be back behind the hitting mat (actually just over the back of it - with Snoots blocking light forward). I will likely be testing that over the next week or so.

              Comment


              • TeeDeck
                TeeDeck commented
                Editing a comment
                Brettster The lights over the sensor are the stock protee lights. The additional lighting is led 4" lights which cast a general amount of light across the whole area. I installed them back in 2018 and regretfully do not have the information available for them. I do know they came from a supplier call Canarm here in Canada. If I remember correctly I think they are 800 lumens with 2700 Kalvin colour not exactly sure of the casting cone (thinking about 180degrees). They are also approx 11 feet up in the ceiling.
                Last edited by TeeDeck; 01-07-2023, 05:46 PM.

            • #25
              TeeDeck

              4" lights which cast a general amount of light across the whole area. I installed them back in 2018 and regretfully do not have the information available for them. I do know they came from a supplier call Canarm here in Canada. If I remember correctly I think they are 800 lumens with 2700 Kalvin colour not exactly sure of the casting cone (thinking about 180degrees).
              Could you please take one of the bulbs down and write down exactly what it says on the back of bulb? It will indicate everything about it, and give a model/part number.

              I'm having a very hard time locating exactly what you are talking about. Are these LED Spot Bulbs - as the 180 degrees sounds way to wide of a spread for a spot? Here's the only things I could come up with:

              This:
              Linkind A19 LED Light Bulbs Dimmable, 100W Equivalent Light Bulbs, 16W, 2700K Soft White, 1600 Lumens LED Bulbs, E26 Standard Base, 120V, Lighting for Bedroom Living Room Home Office, 6 Packs - Amazon.com


              This:


              or This:


              Also, are they in track light fixtures?

              Something like this:
              BYCK, ICW1020A01BK10, MBK Color, 1 Lt Ceiling/Wall, 50W Type GU10, 4.75inch W x 6.5inch H x 4.75inch D, Easy Connect Included {{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="141"}}


              or this:



              If you could please - write down that information from inside the back of the bulb, I would greatly appreciate it.

              Thank you,
              -Brett

              Comment


              • #26
                Brettster this link is almost identical to the secondary lighting. I just cannot verify the size (4" or 6") at the moment because I am at home and my sims are at my business location.

                ​​​​​​https://www.canarm.com/residential/l...m4dl-bk-c.html

                I use the ProTee Stock Halogens above the sensors.

                Sorry for the delayed response.
                Rich

                Comment


                • #27
                  TeeDeck - thanks, but I don't think that is identical (it is 3000K and not 2700K as you said earlier, it's also 660 Lumens, instead of 800 Lumens as you said earlier, and beamspread, cone is 120, and not 180).

                  If you could please take one down when you are at your business location where your sims are located and write down the exact model number and specs I would greatly appreciate it. That's the only way I can know for sure that the bulbs will work in my setup. I use the stock ProTee Halogen Spots above the sensors, the same as you, so if I can find out exactly what those secondary lighting bulbs are that are not interfering with ProTee then I will be able to purchase and install them.

                  Sorry, but I want to be very sure, and save myself any trouble. This is the only way, knowing the exact part #, or model # / brand of those bulbs you have installed as secondary lighting.

                  Could you please take down one of the bulbs and let me know?

                  These are the closest I could find on Amazon (they are Kelvin Selectable):
                  Amico 6 Pack 4 Inch 5CCT Ultra-Thin LED Recessed Ceiling Light with Junction Box, 2700K/3000K/4000K/5000K/6000K Selectable, 11W Eqv 70W, Dimmable Can-Killer Downlight, 800LM High Brightness - ETL - Amazon.com


                  Thank you,
                  -Brett
                  Last edited by Brettster; 01-18-2023, 02:15 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #28
                    hey Brettster sorry for delayed response. The spec I sent earlier was me guessing..... these lights have been installed since 2018, wasn't relevant at the time to remember info.

                    I have attached a couple if pics of one of the lights.

                    Also so you are aware my ceilings are 10.5ft tall where these lights are install which I am sure has an effect on the secondary light throw.


                    Comment


                    • #29
                      Thank you TeeDeck - one last question, what are the exact measurements that those 2 Secondary Lights are AWAY from the ProTee Stock Halogen Spots? It looks like there is:

                      1 in FRONT of ProTee Putting Halogen Spot, and
                      1 in BACK of ProTee Hitting Halogen Spot.

                      What are those distances please, for both of those? And the EXACT DISTANCE from floor to bulb, I know you said 10.5' Ceiling height, but if cans are hanging down, (that could 10', or 9'8" to the bulb itself). That way we know exactly how to set this up without causing any interference with the ProTee Stock Halogens that are required to be directly over the Putting/Hitting sensors.

                      Now, here is what my research has turned up, that bulb is the (CanArm 6" LED) - CANARM LED-SM6DL-WT-C 6" WHITE LED DISC LIGHT 15W 1000LM 3000K WET LOC RATED DIMMABLE 120V

                      They can be found on Amazon, here - for a decent price. :

                      and here:


                      Now, regarding the CANS you mounted them in? Were those also bought at CANARM, but I would think any standard 6" CAN would work.
                      Last edited by Brettster; 02-02-2023, 01:44 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #30
                        I’ve got led lighting about my Skytrak unit. I’m being told it can cause misreads. While playing TGC 2019, I’m experiencing occasional shots where the club path is perfectly strait but the ball will actually push left with a slight curve. The ball contact is pure and the swing is correct so I am trusting the club path reading. There is no boost turned in.
                        Can anyone comment on the LED lighting possibly causing the misread?​
                        Attached Files

                        Comment

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