HItting Platform

[Archv6625]

I bought mmlincoln's protee and need to get a hitting platform together - little tough to test when the sensor mat is essentially 2.75" inches above my feet.

I've been exploring options and wanted to get thoughts on a few questions.

Is there a preferred distance that the putting sensor should be from the hitting sensor? I know protee recommends ~4'. Any benefit to being closer or farther away?

I have attached my room layout. The back (left in the image) will be used for a fridge and seating. I was thinking about putting the screen ~1' from the wall. Planning to use Cory's HQ screen backed with an impact net with memory foam zip tied or otherwise attached to it. I was thinking about having the ball position ~11' from the front wall (10' from the screen). Good/bad/indifferent? Will that leave enough room for people to move behind?

As far as the hitting platform itself - I see there being a few options.

Following (sort of) the recommendation of the BSC,
Option 1:
1" inch XPS sheeting glued concrete floor topped with 3/4" furring strips 16" OC glued and possibly mechanically fastened to the concrete through the XPS. Would the mechanical fasteners be necessary? I'd rather not if I don't have to. Top this with 7/16-3/4 T&G OSB. I plan to top this with ProPuttSystems turf which is 9/16" high
Option 2:
1.5" inch XPS sheeting glued to concrete floor with 3/4" t&G plywood glued to the XPS. Same question - would this need mechanically fastened to the floor? I'd prefer not if I don't have to. I would then top this with the same ProPuttSystems turf.
Option 3 (not BSC recommended):
Not as energy efficient - frame a platform with 16" OC studs laying flat. Build using pressure treated lumber and sill plates under each board.Fill the gaps with 1.5" XPS. Top this with 3/4" T&G OSB and then the turf.

I have leftover conduit from wiring my house that I'm going to put in the platform to get wiring from the computer to the sensor pad and sensor pad to putting sensor.

How tightly do the frames need to fit the sensor pads? I'd be worried about the sensor pad sliding if it isn't fit very tightly.

Thanks!

[Maverick]

Where is the screen going to be? Where are you going to place the hitting sensor and putting sensor?

Putting sensor is 3'8" from main sensor. Just make sure you leave enough slack in the cable so you can disconnect it easily.

No need to fasten boards to concrete. The whole platform will be pretty heavy. I use flat rubber pads. Stick a bunch to the underside before laying it down on the concrete. That will keep the whole thing from moving.

[aja]

Hi!

For dimension recommendations use ProTee's diagram: http://csc.protee-united.com/entries...tor-dimensions

You basically have an ideally sized space, except that the ProTee dimensions don't include the 12" minimum behind the screen.

As for people moving behind the hitter, I think they're going to be a whole lot safer staying near the fridge.

What do you mean by "BSC"? That abbreviation doesn't ring any bells.

As for choice of materials, don't skimp if possible. Use 3/4" plywood and steer clear of OSB. OSB is basically wood chips and glue and not overly healthy indoors. Also do not use pressure treated wood indoors. It is basically saturated with poisons that have a place to escape to when used outdoors, but pressure treated wood should never be used indoors. (This is based on recomendations provided by the manufacturers of the PT wood themselves.)

I'd suggest using mineral wool as the insulating material between 2x2 sleepers. The mineral wool will deaden the noise from the flooring more than the XPS.

If using 3/4" ply, then sleepers can be placed 24" o.c. but will be a bit "springy" - sort of like grass itself!

I did not mechanically fasten my underfloor framing. Construction adhesive works fine, just make sure there is good contact between the concrete, adhesive and the sleepers.

Hope this helps.

[Archv6625]

AJA - THanks! BSC is Building Science Corp - basically a thinktank set up to find the best way to build houses. Its actually a pretty interesting read, particularly their recommendations about framing.

Believe it or not, the OSB is a measured decision over plywood. Plywood has more of a tendency to warp because it has defined grain (even if it is set up in cross layers) and delaminate, where OSB (especially if you go advantech) really doesn't move except for possible minor edge swelling if you soak it - for example - multiple days of rain before a house is under roof.

You need a capillary break between the framing and floor if you don't use PT, which is why I was more inclined to use PT. There are PT products I'm comfortable using indoors. That's not to say I wouldn't still include a capillary break - just in case some water did get in there...

ZMax,
Screen will be on the right side as you look at the image - against the 15'6" wall. The hitting/putting sensors will be centered on the 15'6" dimension and I have some flexibility in how far back it can be set from the screen/wall, which I guess is part of the question. How far back would you put it? I have a junction box in the ceiling on centered on the 15'6" dimension and an 8' piece of track, so there is a lot of flexibility.

[Maverick]

That wall should be good. Make sure your tall lefty friend can swing his driver freely. At minimum, the screen should be 1' from the wall. Hang a heavy net right behind the screen, slightly loose. And also put mattress foam on the wall. If the screen is 2' from wall, don;t need mattress foam.

[aja]

AJA - THanks! BSC is Building Science Corp - basically a thinktank set up to find the best way to build houses. Its actually a pretty interesting read, particularly their recommendations about framing.

Believe it or not, the OSB is a measured decision over plywood. Plywood has more of a tendency to warp because it has defined grain (even if it is set up in cross layers) and delaminate, where OSB (especially if you go advantech) really doesn't move except for possible minor edge swelling if you soak it - for example - multiple days of rain before a house is under roof.

You need a capillary break between the framing and floor if you don't use PT, which is why I was more inclined to use PT. There are PT products I'm comfortable using indoors. That's not to say I wouldn't still include a capillary break - just in case some water did get in there...

ZMax,
Screen will be on the right side as you look at the image - against the 15'6" wall. The hitting/putting sensors will be centered on the 15'6" dimension and I have some flexibility in how far back it can be set from the screen/wall, which I guess is part of the question. How far back would you put it? I have a junction box in the ceiling on centered on the 15'6" dimension and an 8' piece of track, so there is a lot of flexibility.

Hi!

Is the room you are talking about in a house basement? If it is, and there is no moisture problem there currently, then you are definitely overthinking your build.

If the concrete floor that you are building on is dry then there is no need for a capilliary break. You can test this by taping down a piece of poly and seeing if moisture develops under the poly after several days.

At best, you could use asphalt paper between the wood and the concrete.

As for your contention that OSB is better than plywood, I'm guessing that that's based more on belief in advertising claims than experience in the field. The material of choice for wood sheeting is plywood. You are building in a dry, covered area, so comments about multiple days of rain shouldn't come into play.

I am an experienced builder, and my opinions are based on field experience. I have replaced rotted out OSB more than once. All repairs and new construction is plywood only.

Good luck with your project.

[Archv6625]

Yep, its in a basement. New construction - completely dry. Concrete gives off moisture for years as it cures and even with all precautions, at least in my area, concrete can and will pull moisture out of the air and then put it back out into the air at a different time as humidity dictates. And then you have potential moisture sources from condensation (high humidity location). As far as the capillary break, its not something I would ever be comfortable without and its very common in my area. Maybe its overkill, maybe its not.

The contention for OSB isn't really from advertising - as I rarely, if ever see advertising for sheet goods - its from working with this and other builders on projects and I've seen better results universially with OSB instead of plywood. The plywood is stiffer and happier 24"OC and holds nails better, but those are the only benefits I've seen from it. Just different people with different experiences.

I'm more comfortable going a little above and beyond and knowing that I'm not going to have problems 20 years down the road barring some catastrophic failure rather than playing the percentages and probably not having a problem 20 years down the road.

I appreciate the insight and your experience, but the materials decisions were made based on my own experience and that of those I trust and I've seen great results in my area from. Basically, I wanted to see if I could get away floating the floor as no one in my network has done something similar and I think I have my answer.

Thanks again and I'm sure you get great results too and wish you the best of luck with your future builds.