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It seems more recently, when I hit a L or S wedge I often get distances that are 5 to 15 yards to long. This happens mostly with cut shots. The side spin is sometimes way to much and which results in unrealistic bend. If I choose G or P wedge and hit a L or S wedge the distances and spins are more consistent and realistic. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the interface and redoing the setting, but it is still happening. Has anyone else seen this? If so, is there a solution for this? Do I have a setting wrong?
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I'm testing the USB port current capability and if they shut down for any period. So far all supply at least the 500ma(USB 2.1) required without hesitation that I can yet observe.
You make several good points about support and others reading these posts and needing support.
I'm an EE with quite a bit of hardware and software experience, which may or may not help.
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Each camera use 500ma.
with these cameras, it either works or doenst so I doubt it's the cameras.
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Well, it appears I've found the issue. Not great analysis, but a process of elimination. I suspected one of the usb hubs. Not sure what it was doing, but taking all usb cables off of it seems to have solved the problem with double images. Three sessions of about an hour with no issues.
I think I agree that the very high side spin is due to shaft lean impinging on the front sensors before the ball. Not sure why ball starting direction is not influenced though.Comment
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The shaft lean itself probably wont be the shaft lean over the front row, it could however raise the clubspeed a little.
the side spin will be from path, clubface and ball path.
the front row is not used for ball path when the ceiling camera is used.
It could however impacted on ball path if the hcam was not working correctly as it would have acted as a back up and ball.path may have started a little further left than actual especially if hitting higher shots cutting across the mat moreComment
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Yes, I need to be more specific. For a right hander, right to left there is the back row, the center row and the front row of sensors.
I was hitting a high spin L wedge shot with more shaft lean than normal. So, if I take a look at photo three, earlier posted, the club is shown to have an open face of 14 degrees. The club speed is reasonable, but a bit low. The ball speed looks a bit high. The shot was well struck and the ball hit about the center of the screen and came almost straight back. In this case, I take it the shaft was sensed by the back row and center sensor row, which represents club speed. The open face angle was caused by the center sensor sensing the shaft and then the club head. The higher ball speed was caused by the shaft beating the ball to the front sensor row. Protee UK, Does the following sound right"
For those who are wondering how I resolved the issue with double images. I actually could not find an electrical or software issue with any of the USB 2.0 or 3.0 ports. But one in particular seemed to have issues with devices attached to it. So, I took all devices off of that hub and then place each device on a hub by themselves. Went into device manager to make sure there was only one device on each hub. Seems to be working thus far, which is way different then before.Comment
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Glad to hear you at least got the double images sorted out. As far as shaft lean and the shaft triggering the sensors prematurely go, I wonder if it is possible (I'd check with Jamie first) to disable some of the closer to you sensors, in the middle row, that aren't relative to the ball and your club head for certain clubs?!? <<<...the sensors that your shaft shadow would trigger before the clubhead...if that makes sense and is the issue..Comment
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Thanks for the comments and info DejaVu. I should have also mentioned I replaced the active USB extender with a new one just in case. Other then at startup, I don't see the double images now. Still, your solution of using a powered USB is cleaver and I wish I had thought of it. I plan to go that way. It seems to me it is a cost effective work around that would work well without the need for new cameras. I can see why Protee got away from the older ones, I mean come on, cameras that go double image when there is a power hesitation or reduction?
You and Jamie are probably wondering why I did not use a remote session given Jamie's support is over the top good. I went through the software with a fine tooth comb. I was certain there was no software issue, interface issues not withstanding, and in any case I had to make certain there was no hardware issue or I would just waste his time. Unfortunately, the double image issue sidetracked the intent of the original thread. I should have asked, what is Protee telling me and what is causing these readings. I have not been playing well lately and am curious what Protee is telling me.Comment
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DejaVu:
I installed a powered USB 3.0 hub. The system is working well. I do once in a while see the double image with the H cam after startup, although have not seen it during hitting sessions. The hub provides power all the time and I have a new active USB extender, so the double image should not be happening. The FPS on both cameras still change and need resetting before each session. Still, I think I can finally get back to analyzing why I am playing bad and scoring so high this year.Comment
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Split screen only occurs when there is an issue with the camera booting correctly. Check the cable from the extension to the camera also, the short one.
Sometimes if it's on boot, pressing preview in interface under the relevant camera will reboot it and clear it.
You dont have to change the camera settings every session.
When preview is clicked it will increase the frames by 1 fps.
you would look to take them back if ball detection began to have an issue.
The camera settings should be stored within the fly capture software on separate channels.
This is under advanced settings within the software.
Both cameras in use must be of the same type also as that could result in a split screen.
The cameras were changed in 2017 to a type that keep there own settings in memory and dont rely on a software to be used.
All in all they are better more stable cameras used now
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Good call Jamie!
After I read your post I realized I had not checked one USB connection. The one at the camera itself. So, I got out the ladder. As soon as I touched the camera I could hear the computer signal the disconnection and then reconnection of a USB port. I pulled the USB connector out and blew out both contact areas. Then I reinserted the connector. I did not see a difference in the connection seating. In both cases it looked well seated, but now I can move it without interference with contact.Comment
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